Recent content by Aaron65

The last two times I've had my oil filter out on my '53 Special (with 263), I've noticed some bronze/copper detritus in the oil filter housing/oil filter. My machine shop rebuilt this engine for me 9 years and 12,000 miles ago, and it runs and sounds the same, and the oil pressure hasn't...

When I take my '53 for long highway runs, the temp gauge always creeps up as I drive. Before it was rebuilt and after. It never overheats, probably never gets above 220 (at idle after a freeway run), but it's gotten me to thinking. **It does have a recored radiator*** I've tried jetting up to...

I revoved and installed mine by unbolting the rocker shaft and using two bolts where the rocker shaft installs...it worked fine. I believe the shop manual mentioned wrapping the chain around the rocker shaft...I sure didn't want to do that. I'll bet the Buick techs back in the day did though...

I would personally think you will be time and bucks ahead by trying to find a 401/425, or to keep trying. Any time you switch engines, there are all kinds of headaches, like transmission compatibility, radiator hoses, wiring, mounting, etc. You really have to have some fabrication experience...

Many tests have shown greater cylinder wall wear the cooler an engine is run. 180 degrees is not too hot...heat only becomes an issue above 200, although some with disagree with this. Newer cars frequently run 200-220.

Buicks came stock with a 180 and will run fine with it. IMO, if it's not overheating, leave it the way it is.

Everything--they're two completely different engines. Oldsmobile also had a 455 that is completely different from the other two. Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, and Buick also had 350s and 400s--all completely different. When you're shopping for parts, make sure to get parts for the right engine!

1st...everything in your new rebuild kit should be the SAME! Don't use something that is obviously wrong...local NAPA or Auto Value should be able to get you a rebuild kit that's correct. Look at the reference section of this website...there are shop manuals for 1960 and 66 listed...the master...

I often suggest this, but Egge had really nice looking valves and pistons for my straight 8 with great customer service...might want to check them out too.

I'm pretty sure this is a quirk of the car, Anthony. I bought a rebuilt pump 3 and a half years ago...it leaked from the weephole after about 2 months. That one started making noise this year, so I bought another rebuilt from a different supplier...that one also took 2 months to leak, but now...

Might be high. Unfortunately, these cars have really seemed to take a hit over the last few years. A '65 Skylark low miles no rust hardtop with a 300 just went for something like 4500 over on v8buick.com. It was quite nice looking. Guys can't unload their driver quality hardtops (like mine)...

Has your radiator been boiled out or recored? Probably plugged after all these years.

All Dynaflows has hydraulic, sticks had solids...this was from, I believe, '49 onward. Anyway, I've used Rislone on sticky lifters with very good results...very recently too.

Hey all--anyone know what the oil pump to block bolts should be torqued to on a 263? The manual says to "tighten." Very specific! :) Thanks!

Hello, I just got a new thermostatic spring and anti-rattle spring for the exhaust manifold heat valve on my '53 Special. I'm missing the anti-rattle spring bracket that bolts to the exhaust flange...anybody have one laying around that they can measure for me? I can easily fabricate one, I'd...