1957 Buick driveshaft

MY57BUICK

Member
Hello, Any help appreciated. I there a filter that will fit in the original air filter housing rather then using the recommended oil in there? Also The transmission leaks fluid, i believe from the back of transmission, does the rear end need to be disconnected and moved back to access trans seal? And is the driveshaft outer tube cover necessary or can you leave it off?
 
I don't know if there is some sort of dry filament replacement available, but the oil bath is considered a superior system. The dry filter is only a convenience.

The torque tube is an integral part of the suspension/drive train. You can not remove it. To remove it, you would require a transmission to rear end and rear suspension customization.

You can see what is involved in the 1957 Chassis Manual, CLICK HERE
 
Last edited:
Hello, thanks for your reply how can i be sure where the leak is coming from where you say? Also does the rear end still have to be moved back to change this kit you mentioned?
 
I have a hoist in my garage and I inspect the car after each drive and wipe down the complete underneath
I have managed to spot a leak this way. You would need to have a clean driveline to find a leak as a drop
of oil will travel quite a ways while driving. I believe you can install the kit without moving the rear end.
 
MY57BUICK,

You don't have to remove the rear end, but you need to move it back. The way I do it.
Remove the four bolts from the torque ball to rear shaft. Remove the e-brake cable from the torque tube & move it out of the way. Now use your bumper jack positioned with the hook of the jack catching/into the middle of the X in the frame. Put the other end on the e-brake bracket attached to the torque tube & position it so that the Y in the jack fits snuggly against the bracket. Now use the lug wrench to start jacking the rearend back. Watch the brake hose. IF it's not long enough you can stretch it slightly, but not to much. The torque tube by this time should have been moved back far enough & out of the u-joint enough to remove the torque ball plate & other parts nec. to do the replacement parts. IF you need to remove the u-joint there is a bolt in the middle holding it on.
I've done this so many times I've lost track.

Tom T.
 
Last edited:
MY57BUICK,

You don't have to remove the rear end, but you need to move it back. The way I do it.
Remove the four bolts from the torque ball to rear shaft. Remove the e-brake cable from the torque tube & move it out of the way. Now use your bumper jack positioned with the hook of the jack catching/into the middle of the X in the frame. Put the other end on the e-brake bracket attached to the torque tube & position it so that the Y in the jack fits snuggly against the bracket. Now use the lug wrench to start jacking the rearend back. Watch the brake hose. IF it's not long enough you can stretch it slightly, but not to much. The torque tube by this time should have been moved back far enough & out of the u-joint enough to remove the torque ball plate & other parts nec. to do the replacement parts. IF you need to remove the u-joint there is a bolt in the middle holding it on.
I've done this so many times I've lost track.

Tom T.
Hello, thank you for your help. Does the car need to have the weight off the rear end for this procedure? And is there any chance of the jack slipping? will the u-joint slip back in easily when finished ?
 
I don't have anything like Tom Telesco's experience. I'm writing about the concerns you expressed.
My first try at this job was done alone as follows: First, jack up the car and set jack stands under the frame at a height sufficient to allow the rear suspension to be fully extended. (Taking the rear wheels off makes this easier.) Remove the four bolts from the torque ball to rear shaft. Remove the e-brake cable from the torque tube & move it out of the way. Now wrap a sturdy tow strap around the rear bumper, and loop a short bit of chain around the both sides of the differential case, and set up a "come-along" between the strap and the chain. (My come-along is a Tekton 2-ton cable power puller from Harbor Freight. (Cheap and effective.) The come-along will easily move the rear end sufficiently far back. Do not pull it back any farther than necessary for the prop shaft to slip free. Be careful to keep the chain links off of brake lines, and set up a support to catch the front of the torque tube. Then you can attend to whatever repairs are required to re-seal the torque ball assembly connection. To reassemble, slack off the come-along until you can just begin to re-insert the prop-shaft spline into the back of the U-joint. If it doesn't slip right in, rotate a back brake drum (or wheel if you left them on) until things slip together.
 
Back
Top