1965 buick wildcat drum brake swap

J

jim11702

Guest
what all do i have to do to make the front drums into disk???? Please help
 
pull prts from spindle on out from any dorno GM A-body ( think 64 to 72 ) may want to double check years also master cylinder and booster if applicable, I'd steer away from the used proportioning valve and get an adjustable aftermarrket unit , as you may have some issues w/ brake lock up due to volume of fluid , etc. at rear wheel cylinders. This probably will place the centerline of your rimss ( may not be able to use all with discs ) at a different position ,so that is another thing to consider. or go full aftermarket route from any of several vendors. donor car route is (can be ) cheap Full set-up cost me $85 but lotsa work and expenses can still add up may need new bearings ,seals, etc....and fairly labor intensive aftermarket route ain't cheap at all and can still be lotsa work all depends on your skill level and inclinations...
 
Jim,

Make sure you get a split chamber drum/ disc master cylinder.

I've got a set up from an '81 Le Sabre Limited I'm planning to put on my '65 A Body Skylark.
I'll reuse the A-body upper and lower A arms but use the B-body spindles, discs, master cylinder, pedal, pedal box [thought of that one?!]proportioning valve complete.
I'm in the process of figuring out which ball joints to use - A-body to fit the arms or B-body to fit the spindles - yes they're different!!!I'm inclined to go the B-body ball joint route becuase they're a) bigger and b) once the A arms are machined to accept them then replacements will be a drop in swap. Otherwise you have to turn down the lower B-body ball joints to fit the lower A arm appeture and I think the A body upper ball joints [which take all the weight] have a different taper to the B-body spindle top end.

Following me!! ??

Let me know what you do in the end becuase I'm keen to see how it works out - I'll more than likely learn something for my own swap.

best regards
 
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