52 head in a 53

I was wondering: any progress?
I am picking up the short block from the machine shop tomorrow night. I will post some pics, and some more after we finish putting everything back together. I probably won't get to drive it until spring. Snow will be flying soon.
 
I am putting the engine back together and I am trying to get the paint colors close to correct.
All the tin, valve cover etc are currently black. Is that correct? It does not appear as though they were ever repainted.
The timing chain cover has no paint and very little rust. Were they plated? Or has all the paint pealed off? Does anyone know the correct color?
Oil filter is turquoise with an orange cap.
 

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Frank, the black seems to have been a primer. Too bad the turquoise was not as good. Entire engine is turquoise, add ons are black. Oil filter should be what I call AC blue. There is a ford blue I cannot tell the difference. Top is indeed orange, Chevy orange. I think flywheel housing was natural. Mine ended up same as engine.

Ben
 
Frank, the black seems to have been a primer. Too bad the turquoise was not as good. Entire engine is turquoise, add ons are black. Oil filter should be what I call AC blue. There is a ford blue I cannot tell the difference. Top is indeed orange, Chevy orange. I think flywheel housing was natural. Mine ended up same as engine.

Ben
The assembly is on hold right now. We are under stay at home...like most of the country. I was able to pick up the transmission and bring it home. It looks like another project. I can't believe this car actually ran and drove...
 

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I’m putting my 263 back in the car so does anyone know what the fitting just below the distributor for or does anyone have a good picture of the oil line routing out of the oil filter
 
Hi Frank,
This may help. My filter is on the bulkhead , but basically the oil line comes from under the dizzy (next to oilpump), goes up in the filter (stamped "line in"), comes out at bottum and goes into head at front. There are many pictures on the net. I figured this out. Hope it helps .
See also on you tube, Davin from Hagerty is rebuilding a 263 and explaines a lot. There are 6 or 7 movies. Very nice. I think he may do the oil line quit soon. ( see redline). In the episope of 2 days ago he makes a temp line direct from under dizzy to up in head. ( which he forgot to do first, funny)
On the picture there are many lines around the filter, which is because also the fuel passes and the oilpressure is taken after the filter.
Succes and groeten
Duco
 

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I’m putting my 263 back in the car so does anyone know what the fitting just below the distributor for or does anyone have a good picture of the oil line routing out of the oil filter
I have a '53 in the yard and another in storage, on the '53, the filter is fed from the rail hole to the front of the distributor and the oil hole Duco is using feeds the pressure gauge. In the end, which hole is used only matters for the restorer.
 
Yes Bob, you are right. I wanted the line for the filter directly after the pump and blocked the one further in the rail ( as can be seen in the picture) also I found that it was better to measure pressure after the filter. I also do not think it matters much. as long as the oil is delivered to the head.
met groetjes
 
Hey thanks you guys for the direction I watched the video looks like he was a little confused about the oil as well. My 263 is going in a 1927 Buick speedster. I have a log on this site
 
The assembly is on hold right now. We are under stay at home...like most of the country. I was able to pick up the transmission and bring it home. It looks like another project. I can't believe this car actually ran and drove...
I am looking for a little info on the rocker arm adjusting balls. Some of mine are severely worn and need to be replaced. The original have the oil holes. The replacements do not. Can anyone direct me to a source for the correct ones?
 
Frank-k,
Attached are some pages from the 1948-49 shop manual showing the solid and drilled type Valve Pushrod Adjusting Ball Stud and the associated Rocker Arm. Both types were used in Buick engines in these two years. The solid type ball stud was used on solid valve lifter engines through 1949. The drilled type ball stud was used on 1948-49 engines with hydraulic valve lifters. On 1950-53 straight eights, the drilled type ball stud was used on all engines whether solid or hydraulic type lifter.

The drilled ball stud is part no 1324119. Buick Master Parts Books from the '60s show this number as the replacement for all straight eights back to 1931 and straight sixes back to 1924.

Here is a link to an auto parts site that shows to have 11 of the 1324119 studs in stock. However it does not show what they are used for or even if they are Buick parts. Might be a long shot.

 

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Frank-k,
Attached are some pages from the 1948-49 shop manual showing the solid and drilled type Valve Pushrod Adjusting Ball Stud and the associated Rocker Arm. Both types were used in Buick engines in these two years. The solid type ball stud was used on solid valve lifter engines through 1949. The drilled type ball stud was used on 1948-49 engines with hydraulic valve lifters. On 1950-53 straight eights, the drilled type ball stud was used on all engines whether solid or hydraulic type lifter.

The drilled ball stud is part no 1324119. Buick Master Parts Books from the '60s show this number as the replacement for all straight eights back to 1931 and straight sixes back to 1924.

Here is a link to an auto parts site that shows to have 11 of the 1324119 studs in stock. However it does not show what they are used for or even if they are Buick parts. Might be a long shot.

Thanks, I just saw your reply!
 
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