Best oil & Filter for Nailhead 401 / 445?

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After doing some research, I concluded that it was better to avoid additive such as ZDDPPlus. Even though they are sold as "compatible" with modern oil they may react chemically with additive. Two options: racing oils or conventional oils with high ZDDP.

I found a great list here: https://www.autorestomod.com/oil-zddp-list.html

I selected the 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle)
Rated to 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm

I also installed a K&N HP2003 high flow filter but apparently the fit was not that good.

Has someone experimented with different oil / filter combo?
 
I use Joe Gibbs oil,




 
Unless you have a high lift cam and stiffer valve springs you don't need added zinc or even a high zinc oil. Most all conventional oils have more zinc than when these cars/engines were contemporary. A top end tear down (not oil related) showed at 150,000 miles: still hone marks in cylinders and the cam and lifters were pristine (56-322) using Castrol 20w-50. And it is available nearly everywhere and cheaper than specialty oils.
 
I use Joe Gibbs oil,




Thanks for sharing. Driven's HR2 seems great, but also GP1 (I asked them for advice re: HR1 vs GP1). I noticed that their store also carries the high efficiency Wix oil filters I was looking for as well as grease, cleaners and fuel additives. I contacted them to get more detailed specs. I will post to this thread their response. We have so many issues to deal with. Knowing that Driven checks all the boxes for oil, filter, grease and fuel additive would provide peace of mind in that compartment.
 
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After doing some research, I concluded that it was better to avoid additive such as ZDDPPlus. Even though they are sold as "compatible" with modern oil they may react chemically with additive. Two options: racing oils or conventional oils with high ZDDP.

I found a great list here: https://www.autorestomod.com/oil-zddp-list.html

I selected the 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle)
Rated to 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm

I also installed a K&N HP2003 high flow filter but apparently the fit was not that good.

Has someone experimented with different oil / filter combo?
Wix filter and Brad Penn Racing 20W-50 (which I also use in my Porsche 3.2).
 
Wix filter and Brad Penn Racing 20W-50 (which I also use in my Porsche 3.2).
I have read very good things about Brad Penn oil. Only issue is that racing oils are designed for performance, not preservation of the muscle car engine.

After much research, I am led to trust Driven HR1 as the best available compromise between camshaft protection, anti-rust preservation (when car not driven on daily basis), seals protection and performance. The high viscosity of the HR1 conventional oil is easy on older seals of classic cars — seals that do not last well with synthetic racing oils. Finally, Driven also manufactures a great fuel additive, coolant, transmission fluid, bearing grease and cleaners.

With Driven and Permatex, you get almost all your bases covered. I don’t have infinite time to deal with the thousand restoration issues. I am spending sooo much time just trying to source a window scraper (outer beltline weatherstrip) for my 1966 Wildcat front door window 🤬🤯 and a right wiper arm... Anything that simplify my work is worth $$$. Here (as with Permatex) you can have both superior quality and convenience of complete set of lubricant products—this is unmatched.

See: https://drivenracingoil.com/file/1-Our+Catalog.pdf

PS: personal opinion here.
 
While thicker oils (15W/50, or 20W/50) may offer more viscosity in a hotter running engine in hot weather, it also takes more power to pump, and circulates slower especially while cold. Rule of thumb is to run the thinnest oil that gives you sufficient hot oil pressures. The Nailhead oiling system is very good, and the Nailhead, unlike the later Buick engines, gets away with 10 psi/1000 RPM. I run 10W/30 HR2 in my 602HP 470 BBB. I have great oil pressure when hot, and it builds quickly when cold. Some guys need 20W/50 because they run bigger bearing clearances and need more viscosity. Modern engines run tight clearances and 0W/20 oils.

Flat tappets and small area high pressure points in the engine like zinc in the oil. Yes, it becomes more critical with high spring pressures, but it doesn't hurt to have it and not need it, but it might to need it and not have it.

Zinc was dropped because of emissions (catalytic converters) and roller valve trains in modern car engines.
 
While thicker oils (15W/50, or 20W/50) may offer more viscosity in a hotter running engine in hot weather, it also takes more power to pump, and circulates slower especially while cold. Rule of thumb is to run the thinnest oil that gives you sufficient hot oil pressures. The Nailhead oiling system is very good, and the Nailhead, unlike the later Buick engines, gets away with 10 psi/1000 RPM. I run 10W/30 HR2 in my 602HP 470 BBB. I have great oil pressure when hot, and it builds quickly when cold. Some guys need 20W/50 because they run bigger bearing clearances and need more viscosity. Modern engines run tight clearances and 0W/20 oils.

Flat tappets and small area high pressure points in the engine like zinc in the oil. Yes, it becomes more critical with high spring pressures, but it doesn't hurt to have it and not need it, but it might to need it and not have it.

Zinc was dropped because of emissions (catalytic converters) and roller valve trains in modern car engines.
Thank you Larry for additional information.

For now I have VR1 Synthetic 10w30 and my pressure is all over the place. Sometimes it drops to 25 psi when idle, sometimes it stays at 38 psi. Never comes anywhere close to 10 psi. But the “Cold” light on my dashboard came back to life. Engine temp generally seats around 150.

I just ordered HR5 10W40 conventional from Driven. As soon as it arrives, I’ll add SeaFoam motor treatment in oil and in the gas to clean injectors, and run the engine for 100 mi. Then do oil change, put new filter and replace spark plugs.

hope the pressure will behave less erratically. Possibly a gauge issue.
 
I use Joe Gibbs oil,




Hi Larry, thank you ++. Just ordered the HR5 10w40 conventional. Basically same as HR2 but with some additional additives more specific to classic (anti rust....).

Will also use their fuel and coolant additives. Not the cheapest, except on the long term. So glad to know I no longer have to spend any energy in that department.
 
Hi Larry, thank you ++. Just ordered the HR5 10w40 conventional. Basically same as HR2 but with some additional additives more specific to classic (anti rust....).

Will also use their fuel and coolant additives. Not the cheapest, except on the long term. So glad to know I no longer have to spend any energy in that department.
——————————————
Here is the answer I received from Driven (and the photo of his Wildcat). IMUO they check all the boxes.
——————————————
Summary:

- Oil: Starts with HR5 10w40 for its detergents and engine protection, then after you change your seals (older seals don’t do well with thinner synthetic oil) and achieve low psi, switch to GP1 if you push engine / higher temp than 160F

- Fuel additive: Driven Defender + Boost increases octane but also has detergent for cleaning the fuel system and a corrosion protection additive to help with fuels containing ethanol during storage. But not magic: don’t buy shitty gas.

——————

Hello Chris! Thanks for the Inquiry!

The difference between Driven HR(Conventional) and GP-1 are as follows:
HR oils have a higher level of rust, corrosion protection. This is good for those who drive their cars and store them for periods, typically basing their oil changes on the seasonal calendar vs. actual miles driven.

GP-1 is a great oil for racing, but it is also great for Hot Rod type applications. Our GP-1 oils are not formulated with the additional storage additives. However, GP-1 has a unique base oil that provides natural high load (film strength) so it offers some additional wear protection from a base oil perspective – I will talk about wear protection from ZDDP/additives separate.

I explain it this way - If you store your vehicles for longer periods (winter for example) – go with the HR.
If you drive your Buick consistently (year-round) and change your oil around 3,000 miles or If you have a modified engine (Weekend Drag Racing – Heavier valvetrain pressures – Maybe a supercharger) You should consider GP-1 and the film strength benefit.

The oil you reference has a good value for ZDDP. ZDDP is the zinc/phos anti-wear additive and the value should be 1200 to 1500 PPM. This is enough protection for cams in engines that have been broken-in (including solid lifter). Both the GP-1 and HR oils are in this range, so you are covered. Too much ZDDP may actually can cause wear problems so stay in this typical range and you will be fine. We use moly in our packages to work with the ZDDP to create a high level of wear protection from these friction modifiers. This is a true balancing act that we have perfected over the years.

The only time you need more ZDDP is when you are breaking in a new engine. Our BR series engines have high levels of ZDDP for new engines for 400 initial miles. This is just for a point of reference.

Viscosity is dependent on oil bearing clearance. I had a 425 Nailhead in an Electra 225 a few years ago and ran 10W40 as she had more miles that I could count. (See Photo - Longest car I ever had!) I believe 10W30 was typical. I would mention that HR oils have a benefit of more detergency. This proves to be helpful if you come across am original engine that has many miles but still runs fine like my 425. I wanted to clean up the years of varnish etc. so I ran HR to help clean it out.

Yes, our Defender + boost is a fuel additive that will increase octane. It also has detergent for cleaning the fuel system and a corrosion additive to help with fuels containing ethanol during storage. While I strongly believe in the benefit of fuel additives, I caution users to remember their performance benefit for octane increase is fuel dependent. In other words, in some fuels octane improvers are limited by the base fuel quality. Also, I have never been a fan of the term Lead Substitute. We can increase octane with other materials than lead, but the lubricity benefits of lead in fuels for valve seats in my opinion is difficult to totally substitute. I believe the best route is hardened valve seats - There is a lubricity benefit to Defender + Boost and it’s a great all-around fuel additive because it's addressing multiple potential issues.

Thanks once again for supporting us! I am always here to answer questions. Being the Pontiac/Olds person here it's good to talk to a fellow BOP enthusiast!

Bill Alexander (CLS) (OMA)
Driven Racing Oil

Office: 704-946-9252
3416 Democrat Rd.
Memphis, TN 38118
www.DrivenRacingOil.Com
 

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