1967 Buick GS 400 Restoration

Hey guys and girls, I figured at least a few of you out there may like to watch the progress I make as I restore this car. There is a very, very long story that goes with this car, but I'll keep it short and give you some background on it. My dad bartered one of his 80's chevy trucks for this car when I was pretty young (he bought it for me so he could restore it and give it to me after I graduated high school). If i remember correctly i was probably about 5 years old (I'm 21 now). It was a running driving car with only 57,000 original miles... The issue was that the original owner was an older gentleman and he literally hit EVERYTHING but the lottery; the car had a minimum of one dent on every body panel, and not just little dents. We drove the car for about a year or so as it was and then my dad decided it was time to restore it.
The car was driven into one of my dad's good friends garage (an amazing body guy) and the car was completely disassembled. Slowly all of the body got done after endless hours he had to spent to save all of the original panels. Unfortunately my dads good friend died suddenly just after all of the body work was done, and the car had to be moved. We took the body, frame, and what we thought were all the parts and moved it all to where the car sits today. That was probably about 10 or 12 years ago now. Ever since the day we moved the car in here it wasn't touched again. My dad ran out of time to be down working on it, but over the years when he had the money he'd order parts he knew he needed for the restoration. I always wanted to finish this car but never had the motivation because of the sole fact that I didn't take it apart; I learn by taking things apart and putting them back together, not by getting handed a pile of parts and putting together someone elses unorganized pile of parts.
One day about a month ago I went down to my dads shop to grab a tool I needed and looked at the car sitting there, and something dawned on me. Well that night I started from where my dad left off. Since that night I have completely stripped the engine (to inspect and re-gasket), completely stripped the frame, cleaned, de-greased and painted the frame, spent over 25 hours sitting behind the sand blast cabinet sandblasting chassis parts, ordered a ton of parts and supplies I knew i was going to need, and spent hours sorting through most of the boxes of parts that were unorganized.
This is a fully numbers matching car, I am keeping it 95% original. Obviously frame paint is not the correct color (only because I personally like the gloss black look), but everything else from the original body color, interior, engine, and the rest of the chassis will be correct.
There are a few pictures attached of my progress so far and it will continue to progress as i have literally been working on this car EVERY night since the first day I started.
 

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Lookin' good. Don't get discouraged, just as you have started, one little project at a time:thumbsup:
 
So after sorting through everything, and digging and through all my dad's gm and ford parts sections in his garage. The ONLY thing that seems to have been lost when we moved the car to is the driveshaft. My Hollander interchange says it doesn't interchange to any other vehicle.... my buddy works at desert Valley auto in Arizona, I gave him a call but there are no 67 gs's in the yard... anyone have one or know if I could have one made? Or what my options are...?
 
OP there are many people that make driveshafts. Some are on line Like the Driveshaft Shop or there may be a local machine shop in your area that will make and balance a shaft for you. I would look through the yellow pagers under driveshaft, under specialty machine shops or possibly truck parts/repair. There is a place local to me that is called Associated Truck Parts that sells truck parts and provides some services. They made my last shaft at a very reasonable price.
 
Another question.

Thanks steve. I'll be looking into having one made in a month or so. Every spare penny I have right now is going to other parts to actually get the car together....

One more question. I was thinking painting the rear diff a satin black or a gloss black to match the frame, but I can't decide. What was the factory color of the rear differential?
 
Hey guys,

I havent't posted any updates yet, but ive been very very busy with car. It's become an addiction and i've been working on this car every single spare second i have. It's been a one man show since the beginning, from start to where i am now.... I even put the body on the frame completely by myself. I am very excited about how far i have come in just 3 months. let me know what you think
 

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yeah, it looked like he was making such fantastic progress too.

anyway, i guess i should mention that Buick was REAL big on their smooth ride ( a large part of the reason why they saddled 50s cars with Dynaslush transmissions ), the probable reason why the driveshaft doesn't match up with any other GM A-body is because i bet Buick uses 1 or 2 Constant Velocity joints instead of U joints.

i know the early 70s Electras used two CVs and if you pull one off and substitute a standard U-joint, it's almost the perfect set back on the drive shaft length so you can use the forward engine mount holes on the block. of course, you still have to slide the transmission crossmember and modify a couple of lever arms. and you might want to whack the firewall with a sledge hammer once or twice.

but when you're done, it looks like it belongs there. and that ~3" really helps with weight balance.

i believe the A-body installations used the forward ( means the engine sits as far behind the front cross member as possible ) engine mount holes already ( there are 3 on each side of the block, only 2 are ever in use ) so this trick probably isn't going to work for him.
 
Not surprised.

I'M not surprised he bailed on his thread. As far as driveshafts go, My 68 Wildcat has a 2 piece driveshaft with 4 ujoints and a center bearing support. Some manuals call the Link Yoke a C.V. joint as you mentioned,( I've seen both definitions used in my Buick Chassis Manual) but in reality the link yoke has 2 ordinary ujoints and a spring loaded ball and seat arrangement to keep the whole thing centered. Plans are to replace the 430 with a built and bored 455 this summer that should dyno around 550 Hp. so I'm kinda hoping the driveshaft will be up to the task.
 
erm, i'm pretty sure those Buick 2 piece shafts have a rubber coupling between them.

i'm wouldn't trust that 50 year old rubber to a 500 horsepower engine.

and you DEFINITELY need to install a driveshaft collar up about a foot behind tail of the transmission.

or, this is Bob's idea:
https://www.teambuick.com/reference/driveshaft_loop.php

here's Yardley's article on rebuilding 2 piece shafts:
http://www.1badriv.com/hardway.htm#Driveshaft


i've put an entire RR tire and wheel underneath a fuel cell cage ( rule spec of minimum of 8" road clearance ) at speed and that was way more exciting than i wanted. that little escapade bent the LF frame horn up +6" and totalled the car. and i didn't even hit anything. i was just bouncing down the front stretch.

pogoing the rear end on a drive shaft would be way worse than that.

also, install a snap chain / strap on the driver's side of the engine. smashing the hell out of your carb and intake and hood is not going to fun if that mount comes apart.

i can't figure out where the article on the engine strap is, i could have sworn it was on BuickPerformanceClub but now i can't find it.
 
Pic from the Chassis manual

I don't see the rubber part. There is rubber around the center bearing. Here's a pic... Read both articles and plan to install a driveshaft hoop for sure. The driveshaft mentioned in the excellent article seems to be different from mine with quite a few similarities. When the time comes, I will send it out. Thanks for the links!

driveshaft.002.jpg
 
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