Been doing some str8 8 design work

[Buick Guy]

We were at about .135 and blew the hole in the wall. Keep in mind that we were putting 15 lbs. of boost into the cyl. also. The new silicon spun sleeves from LA Sleeves are .093, but supposed to be 10 times stronger than the old iron sleeves. [The jury is still out]. We ran 8 pass' at World Of Speed, and fried one piston, and all held together. Next week could tell the tale. The object is to keep all that pentup smoke inside the engine. We'll keep everybody posted on Facebook. Look at Salt Cat Racing. Think I'll have another Bud and do some more "Bud Engineering".
Doug

 

[dlomshek]

More updated head design pictures

Here are the latest head redesign shots. The top of the head is not open it's just that I have the CATIA settings of transparent so you can see the cross-flow port layout.

On another topic, does anyone have a late model (with insert main bearings) 320 cubic inch engine for sale? I'm looking for a complete engine with all manifolds, starter, etc.

Great forum! A lot of great info!

David Lomshek
Pittsburg, Kansas

 

[39CENT]

looks good and it seems to have a little quench area. Have you thought of using a vortec type of combustion chamber?

 

[pmuller9]

Here are the latest head redesign shots. The top of the head is not open it's just that I have the CATIA settings of transparent so you can see the cross-flow port layout.

On another topic, does anyone have a late model (with insert main bearings) 320 cubic inch engine for sale? I'm looking for a complete engine with all manifolds, starter, etc.

Great forum! A lot of great info!

David Lomshek
Pittsburg, Kansas

Try http://www.wheatbeltbuick.com/page2.html

 

[Buick Guy]

I think you're on the right track. Now fit in about 5 head studs per cyl., and 16 push rods and you've got a winner. The cooling holes can be moved around, as well as the head studs. [5 is a good number for holding down in blown applications]. Rocker arms can be custom built, but you're somewhat locked in on pushrod position. Get an old head gasket and see where things go, and where they could be moved. Keep it up.
Doug :hurray:

 

[39CENT]

when you put in new head studs, is there a way to put something behind the drilled hole or do you just drill and tap it? Something i,ve always wondered about?

 

[dlomshek]

when you put in new head studs, is there a way to put something behind the drilled hole or do you just drill and tap it? Something i,ve always wondered about?

Not sure what you mean by "behind the drilled hole". Do you mean holes that drill all the way through the part, like into the coolant area in engines?

When I drill and tap holes I don't put anything behind the lower end of the hole unless I'm drilling into something where I don't want chips falling into things like gearboxes and coolant passages, then Ill block the hole bottom.

Dave Lomshek

 

[dlomshek]

Just another thought. For street use I thought about using 8 Mikuni constant velocity carburetors. It's easy to over-carburate street jobs so that when you step on the gas, at low revs, it just coughs and nearly stalls until it gets above a certain number of revs.

I used to drive an old 250cc Ducati motorcycle, when I was young and crazy, and I replaced the stock Dellorto carb with a Mikuni CV carb from a Honda twin. It worked great, much more streetable. BMW used this type of carb for a number of years on their boxer twins before they went to FI.

In any event it would look awesome with 8 side-draft carbs on a street rod.
Quite a linkage problem and the cost might be high.

Dave Lomshek

 

[pmuller9]

Here are the latest head redesign shots. The top of the head is not open it's just that I have the CATIA settings of transparent so you can see the cross-flow port layout.

On another topic, does anyone have a late model (with insert main bearings) 320 cubic inch engine for sale? I'm looking for a complete engine with all manifolds, starter, etc.

Great forum! A lot of great info!

David Lomshek
Pittsburg, Kansas

Dave
Looking good. Here’s some details to get you closer until you get an engine to work with.
The intake ports need to exit between your pushrods so your port centers (at their exit point) will be on the center line between your valve centers. Depending on your valve sizes this will be around .050 off from the cylinder center.
You only have about an inch for intake port diameter between the holes for the push rods so the intake ports will probably be a 1 by 2 inch oval to get the port area you need Chevy had to do a long slot for an intake port on their symmetrical port LS heads.
There are 13 head bolts on the exhaust side and several of your exhaust ports have the bolts in the ports. There are ways around that so your exhaust ports can stay as they are
Spark plugs will have to angle steep in order to stay behind the head bolts.
If you angle all the valves a few degrees toward the intake side (They still will be in line) then you can position the exhaust ports and the spark plugs away from the head bolts and improve the intake port angle at the same time. See attached example (Brodix small block head)
Hope this helps

Paul

 

[39CENT]

I think you're on the right track. Now fit in about 5 head studs per cyl., and 16 push rods and you've got a winner. The cooling holes can be moved around, as well as the head studs. [5 is a good number for holding down in blown applications]. Rocker arms can be custom built, but you're somewhat locked in on pushrod position. Get an old head gasket and see where things go, and where they could be moved. Keep it up.
Doug :hurray:

I was repying to what Buick Guy wrote, about additional
studs. Most bolt holes have a cast in socket like area for each bolt hole .Gives more threads for each bolt or stud to anchor in. and gives more strength to the deck, some are blind some are open. Seems like just a bolt or stud hole drilled in the deck could warp it.

 

[pmuller9]

I was repying to what Buick Guy wrote, about additional
studs. Most bolt holes have a cast in socket like area for each bolt hole .Gives more threads for each bolt or stud to anchor in. and gives more strength to the deck, some are blind some are open. Seems like just a bolt or stud hole drilled in the deck could warp it.

You are right about deck distortion when you try to torque a head bolt or stud that has been drilled and tapped into the thin deck area. Installing a larger diameter insert (can be a drilled and tapped pipe plug) allowing a blind hole and more threads helps or solves the problem. Then deck the block and bore and hone the cylinders.

 

[Buick Guy]

If you are serious about this, I would suggest that you install steel inserts where all of the studs go anyway. After a few times, you will pull the block threads and be taking the head off to repair them. With inserts, it gives more area to pull against and you will be able to torque to the stud specs and not pull the old cast threads out.
Doug

 

[its_bardin]

Hey is this getting along in production or still testing or has stuff like this just been scrapped. Would be awesome to have a decent crossflow head for these straight 8s