Power window wiring

BuddyJ

Member
I have a 1962 Electra 225. The LF power window only works when the door is closed. If the door is open the other three work but not the driver's door. I have taken the door card off and can see the harness and what appears to be the wires connecting to the motor. Of course, it's in spot you can see but can't easily reach. I'm thinking I can try replacing the up and down circuit wires, but I only see one wire going to the motor and I can't tell how it is attached. And I can't see the color. My service manual doesn't explain how to remove the motor and I really don't want to if I don't have to.
Does anyone have experience with my dilemma?
Advice would be much appreciated.
 
Anyone with power windows has that experience:)
The problem is always in the wires that go through the grommet from the door to the door post. They flex whenever the door is opened and closed and eventually fail. For a good repair, you only need to replace the section from inside the door to inside the car body where ever you can find to reach it easily ( "easily"!?), may only be 12 or so inches.
 
Bob, Thanks for the quick response. Replacing the section from inside the door to inside the interior, behind the kick panel will be the "easy" part. Connecting to the motor, tucked up inside the door, will be the "challenge". I'm hoping someone will have a " magic trick " so I won't get my arm caught in the door or twist my back in the process.
Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes!!
 
Buddy, the schematics and service data on the door components are in the 1962 Buick Body Service Manual. Attached are the wiring diagram and a breakdown of door parts. The instructions are there also for removing the regulator/motor assembly. You’re right, this is a lot of work and should be undertaken as a last resort.

The only electrical circuit that would kill just the LF door window operation in both directions is the ground circuit on the LF motor. This ground is created through the motor frame, sheet metal, door hinges etc. No separate wire is present for the ground.

Came across this service bulletin for ‘65 models today by accident which advises adding a #12 ground wire across the door hinges to insure a good ground. Maybe this is the trick needed in case there is a rusty spot in the hinges that shows up when the door is open. Good luck on the troubleshooting.
 

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When he opens the door it stops working. When he closes the door it works again.
As Bob says, the 1st. place to look is the wires that go through the accordion rubber sleeve to the kick panel. Almost guaranteed a broken wire from the door to the interior. Cut the wire 6" from the motor & 6" inside the car behind the kick panel. Feed another 12 gauge wire, I believe, into the sleeve & solder the wires together & insulate. Done. No need to take the motor out or mess with the regulator.

Tom T.
 
I agree if is a ground problem to test for a bad ground run a jumper wire from good solid support under steering wheel to a good shinny piece of metal on the door. If the window lifts when the door is open you have identified your problem.
 
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