Re-motoring a lakes bucket style street rod project called Cassi.

Also did a (very) preliminary mock-up of the carbs. They'll actually mount about 5" lower in finish position, but the manifold (to be) length looks pretty close. :cool:

DSC00001.JPGDSC00006.JPG
 
Couple weeks worth of set-backs. Had to take this week to get our Rose Parade float chassis ready for its first inspection of the year this Saturday. Called a Mechanical Inspection, or MI, by Tournament, it's one of three required to participate in their parade each year.

Next week's out as well, as I'll be readying my HAMBster for Randy's "Dragfest" the following weekend. I'll be back at it though, the following week, and hope to have more pics for those interested.

Be cool. :cool:
 
​Well, got a couple more days to fiddle about in the garage. So ........ cobbled up the spoon gas pedal, and did the initial carbs mount. Used a head flange set I found through the site here, some EMT I had laying about, and a bit of plate for the carb flanges. All in all a nice couple days. Hope to get in a couple more in the next few weeks as well.

Spoon 3.JPG 1st mount 4.JPG 1st mount 2.JPG
 
Last edited:
Thank you ,sir. Did not know that. I am not sure I understand semi precision and full precision.

Am I correct on the rod bearing change? I sure do not want to mislead anyone.

Ben

Ben,
Yes, factory info indicates 1949 engines used inserts in the connecting rod bearings except for about 5000 built at the start of the model year.

Precision was the factory's preferred term for insert bearings vs. cast-type for Babbitted bearings. I take it precision refers to non-adjustable bearing construction. The Babbitt bearings were installed with shims which could be gradually removed to adjust bearing clearance and compensate for wear.

The meaning of semi-precision is still not clear. It may be explained in the '47 Shop Manual supplement as it pertains to the interim late '46-early '47 part numbers. I'll try to pick up a copy to learn the answer.
 
Managed a bit of playtime today, so added the balance tubes to the intake.
Also started swapping parts from the 6 garbage SUs (I got in a parts swap awhile back) to paste together 4 that'll work. Number stamped the intake runners & carb bases so's I can keep'em in order in the future as well (beats juggling'em :laugh_3:).

C2 (1).JPG C2 (2).JPG C2 (5).JPG C2 (6).JPG
 
Got in a few more play days, so did a bit more on the throttle linkage. Also got the rear brakes & parking brake functional (fronts need new drums yet), fuel system complete from tank through pump, and roll bar added.

Then rolled'er up to the HAMBster's trailer so I could bring the HAMBster down to go through the bottom end. Musical Cars is pretty much the name of the game when you hobby out of a 1918 one car garage. :laugh_1:

DSC00002.JPG DSC00010.JPG DSC00005.JPG DSC00006.JPG

DSC00009.JPG DSC00011.JPG DSC00012.JPG
 
Well, Kiddies, all the hoopla from this year's Rose Parade was finally over by the end of February, but I had to take most of March to make some drive train changes to our float chassis. But ....... at last I'm back to the garage.

Got the "common" shaft cobbled up on the throttle linkage, it's now functional to there. Went through the four SUs, and ordered the parts & pieces I'll need to get'em functional. And dug out the Willys Knight dash switch set-up I built for'er back when.

Also butchered a couple of second gen slant six rocker boxes to make a cosmetic "cap" for the Buick one. Just one of my oddball notions, may actually use it if it turns out decent enough.

Next up're the levers & drag links for the throttle. Burlen wants more than I can justify for their repros, so it'll have to be another cobble.

DSC00005.JPG DSC00004.JPG
MVC-004S.JPG 26.jpg
 
Up in the air on that. I agreed to another year with both Cal Poly's and Sierra Madre's Rose float programs. With those and the drag racing, it tends to rather well saturate a years worth of weekends.

But, I'm putting the 'Brick up for sale this year. I've been racing'er for a decade now, and really want to get back to the street with Cassi. Once she's gone, and I'm back on the street that'll open up time for other meets and even some local runs & shows. So, pending that sale ........ :cool:
 
Nice to see the site back, was having withdrawal symptoms.

Finished up the carb linkages during the outage. Pulled the mock-up pb904 out & sold it. Will have the intended pb904 out to the shop I use for slush pumps this year sometime. Plan to get a pic or two of the bell adapter up before it goes back in.

DSC00006.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob
Well, some effing virus hauled off and messed up my plans for awhile. However, in the process of clearing out my old ceramics shop area (where Cassi's parts were stashed) I had no place else to move'em, so had to paste'er back together for now. In lieu of actual progress (stymied for now) here're a couple thumbnails of the girl with her body works back on.

a (1).jpga (8).jpg

a (3).jpg
 
Well, it's been awhile. Fairly busy with Rose Parade float work at the moment, but managed to tinker on Cassi a bit at least. Added a radiator shell brace and a fuel rail. Fuel delivery system now complete. Thinking about cobbling up choke linkages next, then on to the exhaust pipes. Still to go this year're the pb904 rebuild, the oil pan & pick-up mods, and a cooling system. Hope to flame'er up before the end of the year. :cool:

fr (2).jpgfr (3).jpg
 
Just stumbled on this build and found it fascinating. You have a nice car and cool ideas. I wish you well in getting it roadworthy soon. I have many of the parts to do the same, kind of, but I have a T bucket with a nailhead so I don't want to build another roadster. plus, I'm older than dirt and need to stay out of the wind. If I stumble upon a closed body, I might start a project. Thanks for some inspiration. Keep us in the loop.
 
Wow, just shy of ten months since I got to work on Cassi last. Looks like my life's finally settling down though, and I got to spend three days in the garage on Cassi. Decided to do some work on the dash, needed something visual to get back in the game feel. The cowl's a '24 Nash, and I found an original switch plate, so I wanted to keep'em in use. Only had to re assign two of'em to get the functions I need. I like Mahogany, so went with two shades of it for the dash appointments & steering wheel. I'm running a pb904 Torqueflite, so the push buttons're now Mahogany of course. :cool:

Anyway, here're a couple thumbnails & a vid link of the latest work. And here's to a lot less time between this & the next work session. (y)

IMG_3938.JPG

IMG_3935.JPG

IMG_3934.JPG
 
Weaseled in another work session.
Modified the oil pan for the 28* tilt, and fitted the pump pick up to the new angle. Defeated the "floating" feature, keeping it flush with, and right at, the bottom.

IMG_20220430_155054.jpgIMG_20220502_185227.jpgIMG_20220502_194303.jpg

Exhaust up next. :cool:
 
Last edited:
OK, Kiddies, first round on the exhaust. Cobbled together a log(ish) type over three days for the first set-up. Ran it into a home brewed muffler inside an old truck stack. The stack'll be permanent, but I'll likely eventually do a better (proper) set of headers.

Day one ........
c.jpgb.jpga.jpg


Day two ........
IMG_20220506_215528.jpgIMG_20220506_215604.jpg

Day three ........
IMG_20220508_184918.jpgIMG_20220508_190042.jpgIMG_20220508_190043.jpgIMG_20220508_204120.jpgIMG_20220508_204415.jpg
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Bob
If you want to build duels you can get most of the work done by ordering two left side truck headers for a Ford Y block from Sanderson. The port spacing is almost identical to a 320" Buick. But order them complete. I asked that the flanges be left off. MISTAKE! didn't know it at the time but the flanges are part of the manufacturing process abnd gets everything lined up properly. They didn't tell me that so I will have to do some tweaking to finish them. Live and learn. Is yours a 320 or a 248"
20160428_091535.jpg
 
That looks great, wish I had room in those positions. Perhaps I could steal your concept for my next set, and modify it to suit.

I'm piloting the build with a 248, and have a 263 to play with for the next mill. I'm using an after market flange set put out by a private party, it's a little wonky but usable. It'd likely work nicely with the headers you pictured. Is the 320 port spacing identical in LOA to the smaller engines?

The starter on my pb904 adapter's in the way of the rear set, and they both exit too low & vertical for my layout, but now I'm wondering if they could be "fiddled" into the positions I'd need. Also wondering if the right side header is a mirror image of the left. That'd let me take'em two into one right about where I'd need it. Could maybe just cut the top bends shorter to get the angle, then just a bit of heat to nurse'em into position.

Well, thanks a bunch, now I have to go do some homework on Y block headers. :unsure: 😄
 
Back
Top