ex-probation-parole
Member
While I was trying to open up the oil pickup line in the block the drill came thru the casting of the block. Any way to fix it? Thanks
300 ci oil modification disaster
- Thread starter ex-probation-parole
- Start date
Sounds like the same thing has happened to the big blocks. Jim Weise addressed this in his oil mods thread,
400/430/455 Block ID, Prep and Oiling mods
For a while now, folks have been asking me to finish the page I did on this topic, on my website, but I figured a thread here would be easier to find,...
v8buick.com
"One note: While I show the block on an engine stand in the pictures, it is much easier to drill the long suction galley hole out, if you take the block off your engine stand, and place it bellhousing side down on the floor.. take the trans dowel pins out, or just set it on blocks, so it will not rock on the dowels, and sits nice and flat. You will find that it is much easier to keep the drill going straight in that long hole, since the weight of the drill is not pulling it crooked, like it does when doing it on a stand.
Early blocks (400 and 430) can break thru the passage casting, into the inside of the block. If this happens, don't freak out.. it's pretty easy to repair this.
So after your panic attack subsides.. continue drilling the long suction hole until you intersect the hole from the pickup.
Now, go to McDonald's, order nuggets and your favorite sauce, and calm down more..
....then once your blood pressure is back to normal stop by your local hardware store. Most all of them I have been in, have a "specialty metal" selection, and you will find thin wall brass tubing, in 12" lengths..
Buy a length of the 5/8 od size.
Now go to the auto parts store.. and pick up a little tube of Green Loctite.. this is "sleeve retainer". Also get a small card of JB weld..
Back at home, measure how much tube length you need.. the ones I have seen break thru, do so about right in the middle of the passage.
Now, cut the tubing 1" longer than you need to cover the break thru area. Do it nice and square, and don't crush the tubing.. which is tough, but we will handle that later.. do the best you can.
Now tap your tubing into place, with the factory uncut end going in first.. and just before it goes all the way in, put some of the green loctite on just the last 1/2 of tubing... just a couple drops is plenty. Then tap it flush to the block.
About now your asking "why not put the whole 12 inches in... it will fit...".. and the answer is that in my experience, you typically won't get it all in.. because the passage is not drilled straight, and the tubing is a bit delicate.. you just end up flaring the end out and making a mess out of the whole deal. Better to just use what you need.
Now, after the tube is flush, find a nice tapered punch in your toolbox, and use that to flare the brass sleeve out to be tight with the block at the face... simply insert it in the brass tube, and then lightly tap it after it seats on the taper. This will take care of any "muck up" of the end you did, when cutting it.
Now mix up enough JB weld to seal the area where the brass tube is now showing thru.. this is just extra insurance against air leaks in the suction system here. Roll the block over on your ending stand when doing this, so gravity works with you, and the JB weld settles around the tubing/block casting with gravity... follow the instructions on the product, the surfaces have to be clean for the JB weld to stick.
Once the JB weld has set up then one final thing..
Air pressure test your work... simply block the pickup tube inlet, and pressurize the suction passage.. a big rubber tip airgun and compressed air work great.
Now head to your local Ice cream retailer, and buy yourself a treat, for a job well done! "
ex-probation-parole
Member
Thank you all for your great responses. When I settle down I will give it a go. Thanks again Harley