364 rear main seal.

C

curly

Active Member
Is it possible to drop the oil pan and replace the rear main seal with a new rubber one by tapping out the old rubber one.:hurray:
 
They have a rope seal on the crank. You would need to remove the rear main bearing cap, remove the rope seal from the cap and block, and replace it with a suitable two part rubber seal. You might have to loosen the rest of the main caps to let the crank drop a little for access to the part of the seal in the block. I think there is a rubber Ford FE crank seal that fits the Nailhead, but can't say for sure.
 
I realize this post has some shop dust on it from sitting around, but did you ever get the seals from Tom and how did the install go? I take it you still had the dynaflow installed at the same time as well.
 
BornBuick said:
I realize this post has some shop dust on it from sitting around, but did you ever get the seals from Tom and how did the install go? I take it you still had the dynaflow installed at the same time as well.
Click to expand...

i have installed front and rear seals in my 322, and those seals came from Tom.
it was no problems at all with the install, but i have not the engine in the car, its on an enginestand.
 
rear main seal

Hi 'Bornbuick',I got my seal from Summit racing only for ease of payment options and fitted it with motor still in and trans attached but had to drop the stearing arm to remove the sump but probably a 3 to 4 hour job.
 
Thanks for the reply Curly. So did you loosen the main caps off a bit to get the needed crank shaft drop and wiggle room for the install as a lot of references, advise making the job easier and so damage to the seal does not happen? If I remember right you installed the seal made by Best Gasket right?
 
It is NOT nec. to loosen the other four main caps, just remove the rear one. In actuality it's harder to remove the rope seal than installing the new neoprene seal.


Tom T.
 
… It helps out a Lot to lower the crankshaft via equal backing off of the main caps going forward thereby equalizing otherwise damaging stresses along the journals and overall shaft length plus the big benefit of allowing one to have a more positive access to the upper seal & journal areas.
 
I've NEVER had a problem without loosening the other four. Like I said it's harder to remove the old seal than installing the new. Using a pair of needle nose pliers just get a good grip on the seal & turn the crank in the direction of removal.


Tom T.
 
… we use to do it that way too and no doubt it can and has been done without loosening the main caps by others as well, but why chance it. By taking the little time it requires in loosening the other caps it makes things go smoother and much easier of an install all the while eliminating or minimizing potential and or actual damaging events plus it is recommended by both engineers and master mechanics. :thumbsup:
 
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