455 in 67skylark
- Thread starter nzmuzza
- Start date
mel palmer
Newbie
You will need BB frame pads, available TA performance and if using turbo 400 transmission cross memeber will have to be moved back.
Hope this helps, Mel.
Hope this helps, Mel.
I will be happy if someone can suggests I am wrong, but I haven't found any that "fit".
I bought a set from TA, but the drivers side won't allow for the steering column, and the passenger side might fit in your case because you motor won't be fitting in like a GS400, it will be back up higher. Otherwise the passenger side won't fit without a frame notch.
I bought a set from Poston, but I don't think you can get them anymore. They would fit your car, but the passenger side still needed a frame notch for a GS400.
If you want headers, get them while you are fitting the engine, so you can assess your options.
I did take the Poston driver side apart and fitted the flange closer to the bends and with a couple of dents did manage to get them to squeek past the steering, so it is possible to do it with the original steering.
Good luck,
Bob
I bought a set from TA, but the drivers side won't allow for the steering column, and the passenger side might fit in your case because you motor won't be fitting in like a GS400, it will be back up higher. Otherwise the passenger side won't fit without a frame notch.
I bought a set from Poston, but I don't think you can get them anymore. They would fit your car, but the passenger side still needed a frame notch for a GS400.
If you want headers, get them while you are fitting the engine, so you can assess your options.
I did take the Poston driver side apart and fitted the flange closer to the bends and with a couple of dents did manage to get them to squeek past the steering, so it is possible to do it with the original steering.
Good luck,
Bob
twoeightythreez
Member
engine fitment
IMHO the best way to fit the engine is to do it how it's always been done....bolt your eng. mounts to the engine, and then put the frame pads on with the through bolts (loosely) so they can pivot. Then with your tranny bolted to the engine set the engine in the engine bay, level it out, bolt in the crossmember, and position the engine where you want it, mark where the pads are sitting, and then drill holes in the frame to mount the pads. (I can almost guarantee that the factory mounting holes won't completely line up :laugh_4
I personally like to push the engine as far back as possible when doing a swap for balance. I know you can just "bolt them in" but sometimes, due to variables between cars, stuff just doesn't fit..
Also, keep in mind that if your donor block came from an electra or wildcat that you have to move the engine mounts back on the engine block (you will need to chase the threads in the block to get the dirt out!) because the fullsize cars had a different frame and mounting location.
Good luck and post your smokies! Lol
IMHO the best way to fit the engine is to do it how it's always been done....bolt your eng. mounts to the engine, and then put the frame pads on with the through bolts (loosely) so they can pivot. Then with your tranny bolted to the engine set the engine in the engine bay, level it out, bolt in the crossmember, and position the engine where you want it, mark where the pads are sitting, and then drill holes in the frame to mount the pads. (I can almost guarantee that the factory mounting holes won't completely line up :laugh_4
I personally like to push the engine as far back as possible when doing a swap for balance. I know you can just "bolt them in" but sometimes, due to variables between cars, stuff just doesn't fit..Also, keep in mind that if your donor block came from an electra or wildcat that you have to move the engine mounts back on the engine block (you will need to chase the threads in the block to get the dirt out!) because the fullsize cars had a different frame and mounting location.
Good luck and post your smokies! Lol