Getting rid of points

Ronjeremy

Member
I've got a 73 LeSabre with a 350 2bbl. The only modifications I've done is make it dual exhaust and eliminated smog pump. The engine seems to burn up points and condenser about every year, although I drive the car to car shows and that's about it. My mechanic knows how to tune these cars. For my peace of mind, I want electronic ignition for this car. Does anyone have knowledge, or product preference ? Thanks!
 
I run points in everything. Follow Tom's recommendation first, with the ignition in the run position, you should NOT have 12 volts to the coil! Only reduced voltage, maybe 7 or 8. Otherwise the only reason for failure is not properly using the ignition/accessory switch. If the car is not running use the accessory position. Do not leave the key in the ON or RUN position if the engine is not running (it's like Russian Roulette, with the engine not running and the key ON, IF the points are closed, they will burn out. So it doesn't happen every time, just when the points are closed.).
 
I use an electronic conversion that ONLY uses the one existing wire that runs to the points.
EVERYTHING remains as stock & is a bolt-in replacement.
It has MANY advantages over others as it uses ONLY the wire existing to the points so NO ONE knows it's a conversion except you & I.
It has MANY advantages.
IF for some reason you leave the key in the on position, as if you are checking for other problems, it turns itself off automatically so you don't overheat the coil & "burn" it out.
Has a consistent dwell because it is not relying on the rubbing block which can all be different because of wear.
So the dwell is ALWAYS the same & timing DOESN'T fluctuate.
PLUS other attributes I can't think of at the moment.
IF it has a full 12 volts running to it it will overheat & stop running.
AFTER it cools it will start & run again so you aren't stranded. Usually about 10-15 minutes.
I have been selling these for about 20 years now with no known problems.

Tom T.
 
Install a Pertronix electronic ignition system under the stock distributor cap. Easy to do and very reliable. Otherwise do as Tom says and make sure you have the stock resistor wire doing it's job. To check it, turn the ignition to the ON position and use a meter to measure the voltage at the positive (+) side of the coil. The red lead of your meter should be placed on the positive terminal and the black should be clipped to a good ground. Voltage should not exceed 9 volts. If you switch to a Pertronix system you will not have to worry about a resistance wire. It is not used. Good luck with everything...
 
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