My 1950 Roadmaster is hard to start. When it has been run recently it starts OK. But, if not, I have to pump it 10 or 20 times to get it to start. It has a professionally rebuilt carburetor and fuel pump. Otherwise, it runs fine. Any suggestions?
Explain how a carburetor can "drain back"?Yes a check valve would work if drain back is the issue
Explain how a carburetor can "drain back"?
Ok, let's look at this on your car. After it has cooled down overnight after a hot run, without touching the throttle or linkage or gas pedal, remove the air cleaner. The choke should be open. With the key off rotate the linkage to wide open and the choke blade should close and after release it should be on the fast idle cam. Doing this you have also delivered a shot of fuel from the accelerator pump if the bowl has fuel in it.Exactly what is this "flooring" step? Maybe that is part of my problem. I do "pump" it now. Do I do it with the ignition off? If not, it tries to start.
It does not and can not drain back. After a hot run with todays very volatile fuel the gas in the bowl will boil or percolate over into the manifold, leaving it empty for start up the next day. The valves in the fuel pump will prevent any drain back in the line.
Your so wrong for so many reasons I'm not even going to waste my time.
Do yourself a favor and do some research about fuel systems from that period of time before giving wrong absolute answers.
Don't worry Ben, no pissin' contest this time.Oh crap!
Ben
THISI appreciate all the input. I have electric fuel pumps in a couple of my other cars and maybe I will put one in the Roadmaster if I have to. What is the consensus on full time use or only when starting. I run my others full time.