1965 Skylark Gran Sport Kickdown and switch pitch mounting

B

Brendan4862

Member
I just wrote an intro over in the new members area, hello everyone!

My first issue: I am banging my head on how the switch pitch and kickdown are mounted from the factory on the 65 GS with ST300?? Anyone have a picture of a factory set up they can share?? This car has en edlbrock carb with a make-shift kick down on it. There is nothing connected to the SP/VP and after testing with remote power, it does indeed work, just not hooked up. I would like to see how the factory wires are routed and how everything mounts up.

I have scoured the internet, the forums, and asked some restorers, but I find conflicting info on whether there is a VP switch on the linkage towards the back of the engine like in the Riviera, or whether it is a small 'dashpot' esque design towards the front of the engine?

Any pictures or advice on this would be so extremely helpful and I look forward to your replies.
 
Larry, thank you very much for those pictures!!! After cross referencing the manuals that teambuick has graciously provided on the site, I see that in 64 they had the switch on the dashpot, and they went to a switch on the rear throttle bracket in 65, as pictured above. Now the hunt begins to find that specific 'switch' at the back of the throttle linkage close to the firewall.
 
If you scroll to the bottom of the image, CLICK HERE, you will find a picture with the parts descriptions for the downshift linkage on the '65 downshift controls.
 
Bob - Not wishing to hi-jack this gentleman's thread, could you contact me over on my "sportwagon restoration page" thread?
I have a 65 sportwagon with the ST 300 S/P, and the photo you attached here is the closest I have gotten to understanding the linkage, however I still have a question -- Dave
 
It's been a while since I set up the one on the Riviera, what is your question, it will probably compliment this thread.
 
OK - I want to send you a picture for reference - I have the microswitch, and the linkage, it just seems like the "flat landing" foot or what you call it that actually touches the microswitch is missing.

By the way - just FYI - it appears that your tiny cotter pin may fall out -----

Will take a couple pics and get back on this in a day or so
 
OK - here is my question...
"Am I missing a tiny part on my linkage?..........seems the small flat "foot" that actually hits the microswitch is MIA
I restored the linkage and while the firewall is stripped down getting painted, it's in a box
I did not lose any parts - this is exactly how it came off (just cleaner...!)
Maybe we could get a photo of your linkage from the passenger side looking in at it ( I know - may need to remove air cleaner)
Also, where the manual talks about rotating the microswitch about the lower screw to adjust, I don't really see any adjustment slot - just that the holes drilled for the two small through bolts are quite a bit bigger than the bolt diam, so there is some "play"
DaveDave's switch pitch 1.jpgDave's switch pitch 2.jpgDave's switch pitch 3.jpgDave's switch pitch 2.jpg
 
Here is the parts page from the '68 parts book:
It does not show a lever as in Larry's image, but his is on a '67 GS which has the new engine (wrong, see next post).
The picture is of my '66 Riv, it is a Nailhead with an SP and looks much like yours, the picture is taken from the passenger side.
It looks like you may have everything, you just have to get it oriented.:)



IMG_4378.jpg

Untitled-1.jpg
 
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Wonderful - now I can see what the switch should look like...
Odd thing is...my switch really doesn't look like anything really has broken off....
What part of the linkage does the switch lever hit against (when at idle position - full throttle off I presume)?
Maybe I can fabricate something
Dave
 
You switch is missing the metal part on top. If you look at your switch at the end farthest from the button, you will notice a hole on the same surface as the button. The metal piece just pushes in with a flat spring. I can try to get some better pictures, but I don't think it will be easy to fabricate. It would take some patience!
It contacts the wider washer in your assembly.
 
These comments definitely do compliment what I have been trying to accomplish. I have been keeping my eyes peeled for a nice idle stator switch, that is the last piece I need to complete my electrical/engine compartment rehab. At least I can still drive the car around, just no switch pitch action at the moment.
 
Here is an image which shows a switch without the metal piece, you can see the damaged socket that it fits into:

Untitled-2.jpg
 
Well, Bob - you have solved the mystery!!
That pic with the side-by-side good switch and broken switch says it all...

I guess Brendan and I are in the same boat now

Quick internet search didn't yield any NOS or replacement switches

No torque at idle...!!

Dave
 
Without the switch, the torque converter does not go into high stall at idle, it stays in "low stall" which means the converter is acting like a common torque converter of the day. You may not be able to set the idle as low as you could if it was going into high stall.
 
Ouch, if that's actually the going rate - https://www.2040-parts.com/1965-66-67-buick-nos-slow-idle-switch-g-s-skylark-66-67-riviera-th400-st300--i237451/. Doesn't even come with the stop screw! But seems to be a "version" of the right part.

I would bet that one could adapt a standard "microswitch with a lever arm" to work in that application (example: Amazon.com). Would have to make sure you have the "angle of the dangle" correct, so there may be some fiddling/using an adapter plate/whatever. And keep in mind - If that switch carries appreciable current, you'd want to find one with a high number of rated electrical cycles. Or couple it with a relay to extend its life.
 
CAUTION!! the switch at 2040 has been mentioned before on this site, and it is probably not available, and in fact 2040 could be either a dead site or a scam, so be careful!

That switch from Amazon looks like something a person might be able to work with, if I couldn't find the right switch and needed one, I might try that.
 
Update: Thanks to eBay, I found a very nice used kick-down switch AND a used throttle assembly that had a beautiful in-tact stator switch. I finally got around to hooking everything up according to the service manuals, and it is running and performing as intended!! It is amazing how different the car drives/behaves with those hooked up. It runs much smoother and seems to accelerate much smoother as well. Thank you all for your help with this, the pictures and insight were extremely helpful. I will try to get some pictures up at some point.
 
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