263 Street Build

Interesting. Good solution, but how about complete height. Will this not interfere with the hood (carbs)? And cooling?
Love the movie!
met groet
Duco
The Netherlands
 
The 263 in the '41 had to go to an electric fan, because the '52 263 and maybe all 263's fan was relocated by moving it down and forward, making the engine assembly slightly longer than the 248. The engine sits at the same or very similar height to the 248, so there is no carb. height problem in this car. I don't see that it would be a problem in the newer models that an air filter change wouldn't solve.
 
OK, good for you. Mine is very low in the care and therefore needed an electric fan. Good luck with the rest.
groet
Duco
 
Bob said:
When installing a "standard" thermostat that does not have a air bleed valve to stop air locking, drill a small hole in it. It may not have a check valve, but it will stop air locking.
View attachment 8971
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I prefer no thermostat, personally, and put a flow control valve on the upper radiator hose that's controllable via a choke cable kit on the dash.

Imagine an oversized heater control valve.
 
Bob said:
This 263 was replacing a 248 in a '41.
It had two carbs and of course we wanted to keep them. We wanted to use the 263 motor mounts because it made for better balance and took a bunch of weight off the aluminum housed 5 speed. The good part is you can simply hang the motor and mounts on the engine, located it in the frame and bolt or weld them in place without spacers! But, when it came to mounting the dual carbs, there was an issue with clearance between the manifolds and the engine mount height. It had to be lowered.

View attachment 9112

I decided that if the engine mount sat about the center of the 4 bolt holes that there would be nice clearance and allow me to use the original 4 mounting holes. First step wack the engine mount side.

View attachment 9113


View attachment 9114 View attachment 9115 View attachment 9116

Here the mount is ready for tacking. There is no reason to turn the block part upside down, but I thought it might look better.

View attachment 9117

Here is the mount on the engine showing the clearance to the dual carburetor exhaust manifold.

View attachment 9118 View attachment 9119

After test fitting the exhaust tube, I decided to cut the shoulder off the mount to reduce interferance. At this point, I would choose to lower the mount another 1/4", or as close to the lower bolts as I could feel comfortable, to allow for more pipe clearance.
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I just bought two of these engines and original manual transmissions for a project.

Any pointers for installing one of these engines into a 1991 C1500 Silverado?

The original 350 V8 has a hole in the block and the manual transmission is locked up.

I paid $100 for the truck and $500 for the two Buick inline 8's and transmissions, so, I'm going with what I've already been wanting to do, since the stars aligned with my checkbook.
 
rcull said:
Big Valves in a 263

I am probably going to post this and someone will come up with a much better valve choice, but here was my effort.

Doing a straight eight Buick 263 head, casting number 1340827.
Using Ford valves.

Intake: Sealed Power, V2171.
Head Diameter 1.682"
Stem Diameter 0.3429"
Length 5.07"
1980-82 Ford 255 4.2L V8

Exhaust: Engine Tech V1771N
Head Diameter 1.457"
Stem Diameter 0.3413:
Length 5.071"
1978-1986 Ford 302 5.0L OHV V8

Target spacing between valve is 0.060"-0.065"
to get to this I reduced the intakes to about 1.660" and the exhausts to 1.440" Then to restore comfortable margins by remove about 0.010" from the valve seat and about 0.010" to form a back cut.

View attachment 8532

OE exhaust stem height 2.245" above spring seat.
Intake stem height 2.285" above spring seat.
Exhaust spring installed height 1.980"
Intake spring installed height 2.000"

Head decked to 3.510" This will give a combustion chamber of about 84cc
original head 3.665" high
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My name is Chandler; I am new to antique Buicks, but just bought a '53 Special. It has been sitting 50 years, some of the valves are stuck, and the head is coming off and headed for the machine shop. I am going to use your Ford valve conversion, and have bought them. Which springs did you use, the Ford or Buick? I presume you used the Ford keepers? Thanks.
 
Timeforit said:
My name is Chandler; I am new to antique Buicks, but just bought a '53 Special. It has been sitting 50 years, some of the valves are stuck, and the head is coming off and headed for the machine shop. I am going to use your Ford valve conversion, and have bought them. Which springs did you use, the Ford or Buick? I presume you used the Ford keepers? Thanks.
Click to expand...
My records show is the valve springs were Chevrolet performance Z28 springs. I don't remember any problems with keepers and retainer. If you look at the valves when you get them, I wouldn't be surprised if the Chev keepers and retainers fit. Good luck!
 
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