driveshaft loop
- Thread starter rcull
- Start date
Bob,
I have an older outdated NHRA Rulebook. I was reading the recent rules concerning the loop from a vendor, and the rules quoted seem consistent with my older rulebook. Below is what is in my rulebook.
In section 2A under Driveline:
"Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker (not required on 13.00 or slower cars equipped with street tires)."
In General Rules 2.4 under Driveline:
“In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degreees of enclosure, 1/4 minimum thickness and 2-inches wide, or 7/8-inch x.065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in the event of U-joint failure.”
Maybe someone would confirm these rules are still are valid from a current rulebook? I hope this is helpful.
I have an older outdated NHRA Rulebook. I was reading the recent rules concerning the loop from a vendor, and the rules quoted seem consistent with my older rulebook. Below is what is in my rulebook.
In section 2A under Driveline:
"Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker (not required on 13.00 or slower cars equipped with street tires)."
In General Rules 2.4 under Driveline:
“In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degreees of enclosure, 1/4 minimum thickness and 2-inches wide, or 7/8-inch x.065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in the event of U-joint failure.”
Maybe someone would confirm these rules are still are valid from a current rulebook? I hope this is helpful.
Bob,
Some of the new no-drill loops have the tubing. They bolt between the transmission mount and transmission using a bracket. I am worried that they may change the pinion angle, but am considering one for my 66 (since I will be using slicks and it should be capable of a 12 second run).
The old universal loops used two L brackets on either side of the loop. Each bracket is held in place with four 3/8" bolts through the floor. The loop has some adjustment up and down between the brackets. I just don't feel like drilling 8 holes in the floor of the 66. So, I will probably give the no-drill loop a try. Jegs, Summit and OPG carry both kinds.
Some of the new no-drill loops have the tubing. They bolt between the transmission mount and transmission using a bracket. I am worried that they may change the pinion angle, but am considering one for my 66 (since I will be using slicks and it should be capable of a 12 second run).
The old universal loops used two L brackets on either side of the loop. Each bracket is held in place with four 3/8" bolts through the floor. The loop has some adjustment up and down between the brackets. I just don't feel like drilling 8 holes in the floor of the 66. So, I will probably give the no-drill loop a try. Jegs, Summit and OPG carry both kinds.
Hey Bob,
Something has changed in my signature. I like it! I am partial to yours as well.
Something has changed in my signature. I like it! I am partial to yours as well.
O
OLe JIM
Guest
Yrs AGO==WE Used!--an Auto tranny Band for a Tranny Loop--as there 1/4 inch thick--2 inches Wide--& a lot stronger than the aftermarket stuff--I had an aftermarket ONE yrs ago--let GO & You know WHAT came UP through the Floor boards-- NOW--I Use 1/4 inch rectual tubbing--1 X 4--from frame rail to frame rail--& the Above--Auto tranny Band--& a couple of Shafts have Let GO!-w/ NO Damage--other than changing my Shorts!--as that Modifyed 455 DID put out some Horses!--Ole JIM--