I used a DeWalt hand-held bandsaw to make one angular cut in the middle of each rod which facilitated their removal. There were no threads in the arms of my '41 Buick, and the Kanter threaded ends were a larger diameter than the arms, so I turned down the OD of the threads which all but eliminated the threads. I also had to utilize a three-stone brake cylinder hone to cleanup and open the holes in the control arms. The Kanter rods were cast as one piece rather than the originals which had spot welded clamps for bolting to the frame. This allowed for very easy insertion of the rods into the control arms, and subsequent insertion of the threaded ends onto the rods and through the control arms. I was concerned about the threaded ends backing out of the control arms, so I drilled and tapped the thicker built-up area of each control arm and inserted and thread-locked a 5/16" allen-style set-screw to a dead-stop against the threaded end.
I just finished replacing the king pins and bushings (also from Kanter) in the car and used the opportunity to inspect the suspension components I had replaced, finding none of the threaded ends had backed out. I had to utilize the brake cylinder hone, with a new set of stones, to open up the new king pin bushings, but short of using a reamer, this job also went very well.