Oil & cooling - New car - new member thx!

sphot

Member
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Hello all, thank you for participating, I have been reading already many pages of info, looking forward to learn and share a lot. After seeing a modded '42 sedanet in the Netherlands when I was a student 25 years ago, this super model was on my mind... :) Now finally entitled to work on a '46 Super Sedanet (yeah!), the car likely was 9 years just standing still. When I have cleaned the cooling system, I will test starting the block with the new battery.

Any tips for removing the actual impeller from the water pump? If I can find time (to edit) I might make videos 'how to' for others in the future, have not found one yet. There is lots of rust in the radiator, hoses, waterpump housing, engine block (....), I still have hope, deserves an effort..

Webshops or shops for buying new waterpump shaft, impeller, and related parts including new bolts?

I have read that there were Straight 8s with and without oil filter in those years, there was no oil filter on mine when I received it. On picture 2 a screw can be seen driven into the block (in the middle of the picture; left off the battery connection at the block; if this is not for oil filter, what would it been for?) and at the bottom of the block (at approximately the same Y axis) there is a bolt coming out of the block. Was this factory made?, added later?, and specifically made for an oil filter or otherwise? How can I find out what was the original set up? In the user manual I cannot find this information. There is only an oil filter shown, no details how it was fixed.
If I would add an oil filter, what is best practice where to add the lines in the block?


Speaking about the correct (safety) battery connection (just bought new 6V battery; there was none with the car), is this set-up the recommended one :
- the connector from the engine to the minus (black) pole at the battery
- the positive (red) pole to the starter
- and for safety a connection from the block to the chassis ?

Regarding the picture of the engine mount: it has black smear, is this oil coming from the engine (small leak) or is this coming out of the (rubber?) mount itself (because of age)?

Thx!

Best regards,
Tj
Belgium



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The mount has been deteriorated because of being oil soaked over the years.
No sense replacing it until the source of the oil is found & repaired.
As far as an oil filter it is known as a by-pass type set-up. Meaning that oil goes into the filter & is dumped back into the oil pan.
I like to modify them to be a FULL FLOW system. Meaning all the oil going to the engine is filtered.
What they did back then was some kind of a filtration system when most/many vehicles did not even have oil filters.
Something is better than nothing.

Tom T.
 
The mount has been deteriorated because of being oil soaked over the years.
No sense replacing it until the source of the oil is found & repaired.
As far as an oil filter it is known as a by-pass type set-up. Meaning that oil goes into the filter & is dumped back into the oil pan.
I like to modify them to be a FULL FLOW system. Meaning all the oil going to the engine is filtered.
What they did back then was some kind of a filtration system when most/many vehicles did not even have oil filters.
Something is better than nothing.

Tom T.
Hello Tom, thx for the feedback, appreciated! I will look into the full flow oil system. I assume in this setup the oil filter is short after the oil pump? You make a dedicated hole in oil pan cover for that or in the block itself (lower part; the line from oil filter goes to the top end of block?). You also add additional cooling for the oil (in between filter and top end of block)?

Have a great evening all

thx
 
There are apparently two types of water pumps used on the eights during this period of time.
The early one is described in the '42 manual on page 6-28 CLICK HERE
Our 48-49 Shop manual has water pump disassembly instructions on page 2-45, CLICK HERE . Note they describe the first type of pump is 1330139, and the second is 1336756. It is said that parts for the early type pump were no longer available. Many pumps use standard carbon washers available for "jet water pumps" and can be sourced from many plumbing supply shops.

In the 48-49 manual they are using a conventional two jaw puller to remove the impeller. I would be careful as the force is increased and be prepared to add some heat if it is stubborn. (I have broken my share of impellers).

The plug behind the ground cable and in front of the distributor is where the oil filters source their oil.
In the '42 manual there is a picture of the oil filter mounted near the distributor on page 6-2 and 6-4 CLICK HERE.
In the '48-49 manual there is a picture of the oil filter mounted near the front of the engine CLICK HERE.

For your description of a "safety cable", I would use a light ground cable between the block and the car body.
 
There are apparently two types of water pumps used on the eights during this period of time.
The early one is described in the '42 manual on page 6-28 CLICK HERE
Our 48-49 Shop manual has water pump disassembly instructions on page 2-45, CLICK HERE . Note they describe the first type of pump is 1330139, and the second is 1336756. It is said that parts for the early type pump were no longer available. Many pumps use standard carbon washers available for "jet water pumps" and can be sourced from many plumbing supply shops.

In the 48-49 manual they are using a conventional two jaw puller to remove the impeller. I would be careful as the force is increased and be prepared to add some heat if it is stubborn. (I have broken my share of impellers).

The plug behind the ground cable and in front of the distributor is where the oil filters source their oil.
In the '42 manual there is a picture of the oil filter mounted near the distributor on page 6-2 and 6-4 CLICK HERE.
In the '48-49 manual there is a picture of the oil filter mounted near the front of the engine CLICK HERE.

For your description of a "safety cable", I would use a light ground cable between the block and the car body.
Awesome Bob, thanks for your feedback, appreciated. Didn't know there were 2 types of water pumps, interesting to check the use of standard carbon washers..

Have a good weekend!
 
Does anybody have pictures of their/a complete full oil filtering system, with locations where the oil is coming from, and where it goes back into the block? Any tips for using best-in-class tubes/systems/oil filter(housing)? With an additional pump or using the standard system?
 
Here is an old thread about improving a straight eight filter system you might like to read: CLICK HERE
 
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CLICK HERE for a video showing the filter mounted in the later position at the front of the engine.
Buick_263.jpg
This is the most common position you will see and there are many pictures on Google images. In this image, you can see where the oil is sourced between the distributor and the engine mount, and where it re-enters the engine at the front of the head.

And here is an image of a filter mounted in the earlier, lower position on a 320:
320 engine.jpg
 
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Here is an old thread about improving a straight eight filter system you might like to read: CLICK HERE
hello Bob, the thread is missing thx for updating, great video by the way upgrading the engine, is this your job?
 
I fixed the link. Yes, I did do it, but its not mine.
Great, just to let you know the link in the follow thread is still missing, really curious for this info.. :

Here is an old thread about improving a straight eight filter system you might like to read: CLICK HERE
 
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I wouldnt worry about oil on a mount. If its a hose maybe. Rubber on mounts deteriorates from heat. Breaching thermal breakdown causes it to fail. Oil will increase the thermal threshold of physical properties.

You have rust inside the engine from people topping up with tap water in cooling system. If you want to prove this ask your nearest shop if they have distilled water or parts store of they sell any.

I use phosphoric acid on rust, and neutralize with distilled water.
 
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