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Rear Mainbearingseal on 248
- Thread starter Jenz38
- Start date
Check this out, should give you an idea:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=581416&highlight=1950+buick
Viel Gluck!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=581416&highlight=1950+buick
Viel Gluck!
Jenz38
Active Member
Hi Guys
I will try it with the (good old)Ropeseal but the outer diameter from the BestgaketRUBBERseal is too small to ly it in the deep Groove.The inner diameter looks like the same from the Crank.
Can anybody explain me how the rubberseal is to install? only for understanding...
Or have i get the wrong size of seal from bestgasket? Or..,or..,:clonk:I'm don't understand the
how it works.... I'm not stupid I'm a german Mechanic,may be i think too technical or what?
Thank You Guys for this infos and links.
With Friendly greetings
Jenz
I will try it with the (good old)Ropeseal but the outer diameter from the BestgaketRUBBERseal is too small to ly it in the deep Groove.The inner diameter looks like the same from the Crank.
Can anybody explain me how the rubberseal is to install? only for understanding...
Or have i get the wrong size of seal from bestgasket? Or..,or..,:clonk:I'm don't understand the
how it works.... I'm not stupid I'm a german Mechanic,may be i think too technical or what?
Thank You Guys for this infos and links.
With Friendly greetings
Jenz
Jenz38
Active Member
THE REASON for that all..
Hi Guys,
yesterday i'm open my spare-engine(it's a 248 from a '51 Super),for looking there to the rear Mainsealing,and now I see the problem and the reason wy i'm don't understand you...: My Engine have only 1 !!! Groove for the leaking Oil,there is NOT a 2. Groove for the the Rope or in my case for my new Rubbergasket. Anybody know's why this Engine have no sealing?or when Buick start to seal up the 248 with a real Seal?In the next Weeks i get my "new"263 (Dynaflow!!)from the States,it become a completly rebuild(milling,porting,balancing,may be change to solid lifters and fix the Problem with the flywheel ..) and In the Winter i will put it in my Car -WITH CORRECT- rear sealing.
friendly greets JENZ
Hi Guys,
yesterday i'm open my spare-engine(it's a 248 from a '51 Super),for looking there to the rear Mainsealing,and now I see the problem and the reason wy i'm don't understand you...: My Engine have only 1 !!! Groove for the leaking Oil,there is NOT a 2. Groove for the the Rope or in my case for my new Rubbergasket. Anybody know's why this Engine have no sealing?or when Buick start to seal up the 248 with a real Seal?In the next Weeks i get my "new"263 (Dynaflow!!)from the States,it become a completly rebuild(milling,porting,balancing,may be change to solid lifters and fix the Problem with the flywheel ..) and In the Winter i will put it in my Car -WITH CORRECT- rear sealing.
friendly greets JENZ
Rope seal
Buick listed the application years in their parts book for the rope seal as years 1937-1999 [not sure on the last year]. When installed properly on serviceable parts, they worked great. Too many installers don't follow the instructions and they will fail on breakin.
Doug
Buick listed the application years in their parts book for the rope seal as years 1937-1999 [not sure on the last year]. When installed properly on serviceable parts, they worked great. Too many installers don't follow the instructions and they will fail on breakin.
Doug
Jenz38
Active Member
The End of the Story
I have just read at Bobs Automobilia about the rearmainsealing-offers, that they from 1939 and UP !! have a sealing at the rear NOT before...
I hope thats a interesting Information too, for all the Guys they have a pre1939 str.8 "Smallblock".
from now on a relaxed and well sleeping
JENZ
I have just read at Bobs Automobilia about the rearmainsealing-offers, that they from 1939 and UP !! have a sealing at the rear NOT before...
I hope thats a interesting Information too, for all the Guys they have a pre1939 str.8 "Smallblock".
from now on a relaxed and well sleeping
JENZ
rear main seal installation suggestions from AACA thread
You shouldn't have to touch any other main caps. The tool is called a "Sneaky Pete", and works on the principal of Chinese fingers, as DF8 mentioned . Available at most parts stores. The kit comes with a rod about 6-8" long, with one end screw threaded, the other end has a ring on it. Screw the threaded end into the old rope seal, and pull the seal out. Once enough is exposed, grab it with pliers. The secret is slowly turning the crankshaft as you pull on the seal. Same going back in. Grease the seal up good, latch on to it with the Sneaky Pete, and pull it slowly as you turn the crank. When you get it into position, cut it off a hair past flush. On the bottom seal, lay the seal in the groove, and I take a large socket and seat the seal in the groove. Cut that seal off, again, just a little past flush. You want enough sticking out so the seal ends crush together. I put just a drop of sealant on the seal ends, just to make sure there is no way oil can seep where the ends meet.
Like DynaFlash8 said, make sure you don't leave the little cork seals out, unless you enjoy laying under there with oil dripping in your eyes... At best, it can be a nasty job.
You mentioned BestGasket. Do they make a neopreme replacement like they do for the Olds rear seals? If they do, go for that one. They are far superior to rope. However, if a replacement isn't available, the rope seals work fine if installed properly.
Good luck
You shouldn't have to touch any other main caps. The tool is called a "Sneaky Pete", and works on the principal of Chinese fingers, as DF8 mentioned . Available at most parts stores. The kit comes with a rod about 6-8" long, with one end screw threaded, the other end has a ring on it. Screw the threaded end into the old rope seal, and pull the seal out. Once enough is exposed, grab it with pliers. The secret is slowly turning the crankshaft as you pull on the seal. Same going back in. Grease the seal up good, latch on to it with the Sneaky Pete, and pull it slowly as you turn the crank. When you get it into position, cut it off a hair past flush. On the bottom seal, lay the seal in the groove, and I take a large socket and seat the seal in the groove. Cut that seal off, again, just a little past flush. You want enough sticking out so the seal ends crush together. I put just a drop of sealant on the seal ends, just to make sure there is no way oil can seep where the ends meet.
Like DynaFlash8 said, make sure you don't leave the little cork seals out, unless you enjoy laying under there with oil dripping in your eyes... At best, it can be a nasty job.
You mentioned BestGasket. Do they make a neopreme replacement like they do for the Olds rear seals? If they do, go for that one. They are far superior to rope. However, if a replacement isn't available, the rope seals work fine if installed properly.
Good luck
