Do this. Current recommendations are to use seals on both the intake and exhaust. This will lubricate the guides and stems as good or better than no seals. My 322 showed no wear after 120K miles.
If the old gasket is mostly intact use your scanner with plastic on both sides. Scan and save then set the print dialogue to print actual size. Glue to gasket paper and cut out. Or scan the housing to get the pattern.
If the timing chain jumped and someone adjusted it to run, the the timing marks will be way off. I had one like that and the top piston rings were all broken due to severe wear with taper in the cylinders causing the rings to flex; it also had a ridge at the top and bottom of the cylinders.
Would not hurt to try that and/or STP to raise the viscosity. Modern tranny fluid is less viscose than original and work well in a newly rebuilt transmission, but old and worn ones revolt.
Good for you, but I would not recommend it. Use the specified hydraulic jack oil and it will serve you well. Motorcycle fork oil it too thick and you will break the (expensive) links.
Made by Diamondback Radial DB1 line. 4 tires 225-75r15, 2.5 inch whitewall. Six months old and less than 1000 miles. $650
Pickup at zip 78155 or I can deliver to your shipper of choice within 30 miles.
$600 (that is 1/2 original price)...offers?
Service manual will show you how. As a test with the car on jackstands disconnect the linage at the transmission and run it through the gears at the transmission (assuming detents are in the transmission). While on jackstands check the pressures as outlined in the service manual.
Crank it with the plugs out until it shows pressure on the gauge. I have found some of those engines too stiff for that, so tow it in gear for a few blocks.