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I love it when people say "can't" rather than - you can, it's not too difficult to do, and it just requires a bit of explanation. I had this problem with my Skylark when I put an early intake on a later head. So first, a few pictures 1st a picture of the motor with the offy intake on it. The...

I always chuckle when people talk about working space... here's the Buick And here's my other major, current project (3.6l VVT Cad motor with turbos)

Okay - 1st Thank you Paul - you've been an amazing help, even though this build is far more complex because of your input (it's really a good thing). I'm build a 455 for my Skylark (I'll do a picture post later). The car itself is a long story, but the end is I'm going to build a 455 for it...

After a lot of considering, I've decided direction on my 455 build. Was going to go turbo, but the only way to reliably make turbo power includes a 6k block; I've decided the entry price is just too high... So, the question. If you were going to build a NA 455, STREET motor (meaning, no E85...

my deciding factor for the smaller motor/turbo is based in my experience with my 06 GTO.... in the wet, 1st gear is basically useless, and you have to be really careful through 5th gear. Something that comes on a bit less hard would be my choice. That said. Turbo Nailhead...

I'm in the turbo camp - I've been waiting for a 65 to pop up and add to my fleet.... it will get a GNX 231 turbo motor... the 61-64 (both body styles) are so light that a turbo 231 would make that sucker scream.... add a few suspension mods and that thing will suck the doors and the ego off of...

I've looked at this for quite awhile and I just don't know.... Is it possible to change the seal without completely removing the pan (while it's in the car).... anyone able to help?

so here are the completed headers Left side I was going to have the headers coated, however, my nephew took some headers that I'd used VHT on to have coated and the guy complained about how hard it was to get the paint off.... :bgrin: so why spend 200 when 20 works just as well and can be...

maybe it was hooker who made the other headers? dunno, the cheapest I found when I did these headers was ~$750. In either case, I have less than 200 in these headers... Also, these headers are 2 1/4 - all the other headers I found were smaller (this is where the headers were built for the...

they are steel and rubber.... the weld trick doesn't work for that :bgrin: Interesting how he gets the rubber out - but there's no way that's happening in the car without a huge amount of blood being spilled. I used an air hammer to get one side out by collapsing the shell then pushing it out...

continued so here's where a few of the gremlins popped up when I got to the collector, I realized that I couldn't make all the bends in the space available

I'm a cheapskate, I admit it - so when I heard I could buy small, thin walled Headman headers for 768 or okay, still small, headers for 1000; I figured I'd just do it myself. Let me be the first to say - I hate photobucket.... anyway, some considerations first 1) if you can buy the flange, do...

forgot one last bit - now I have a problem with the tires folding over - so next up will be low-profile tires and at least 17" front/18" rear rims.

the easiest way to remove bushings was.... I built the tool, then air impacted it off - and impacted them back on.... oh how much easier is that - or you can buy it - 60 bucks or so... I suppose I should update. here is how the car sits today I don't like it. I raised the front 3/4"...

Like the title says - I have a 1970 Buick with a 12 bolt rear. I'm replacing the upper control arm bushings, and having an terrible time getting them off the ears on the rear housing. Is there an easy way?

frame conversion is all about measurements. You're not so concerned about length, and you'd be exceptionally lucky a newer frame with the same dimensions. The critical dimension is track width (there are several ways of measuring this, but you're most concerned with where the wheel is in...

I know lots of people that swear by swaybars in the rear - I'm not convinced they're worth it. I even have the largest swaybars I can get front and rear. My issue is with the rear swaybar, the biggest reason to use a rear swaybar is to help keep the rear end centered in the car. That's kind...

Here's the list of what I'd do to an A-body (have a 70 skylark, had 62, 64, and 66 skylarks)...prior to anything, I'd check and replace any worn tie-rods, ball joints, steering boxes, etc. 1) B-body spindle conversion with tubular upper control arms. 2) thicker front sway bar; 3) here's where...

It depends on what you already have - if it's 40 year old stock, yep, it'll be an great upgrade.... but the 1st question - what do you want to do with the car? if you're going to drive it to shows, and cruise with it - replacing the bushing will do all that you want.

I'm not sure what a gravity feed fuel pump is - after all, if it's gravity fed (like the Model As and Model Ts) it won't need a pump. Your tank has a vent on the front right corner of the tank - most times its problem is it leaks. The rubber that is attached to the vent breaks down...