Please tell me that it will be living on the road as a daily driver again...
I'd hate to see so much work for a car to be used as eye candy.
52 Special - Let's try to resurrect a survivor
- Thread starter bittmann
- Start date
I'd hate to see so much work for a car to be used as eye candy.
That's not my intention. I don't know how long I'll want to keep the old girl, but for now, it (as they say) "sparks joy" every time I see her. And something as straight and rust-free as she is, even with the old paint...she's aged gracefully. It would be a shame to erase all of her history for no good reason.
I need to finish buttoning up the engine - I have exhaust manifold issues to resolve as well as the freeze plugs, temp sender, heater valve, the one pushrod that was bent, and whatever else inevitably gets exposed by this exercise. I'm not going to go nuts, just try to give her what she needs to get running again.
And, after the engine is running reliably, I'll still have to turn my attention to the torque ball, which now drips continually. Nothing like disturbing a seal that's set quiet for 15-20+ years to make it grumpy!
My list is quite a bit shorter than it "was", but I have to admit - drilling/extracting/tapping/helicoiling cast manifolds doesn't excite me. So I've been delaying.
I need to finish buttoning up the engine - I have exhaust manifold issues to resolve as well as the freeze plugs, temp sender, heater valve, the one pushrod that was bent, and whatever else inevitably gets exposed by this exercise. I'm not going to go nuts, just try to give her what she needs to get running again.
And, after the engine is running reliably, I'll still have to turn my attention to the torque ball, which now drips continually. Nothing like disturbing a seal that's set quiet for 15-20+ years to make it grumpy!
My list is quite a bit shorter than it "was", but I have to admit - drilling/extracting/tapping/helicoiling cast manifolds doesn't excite me. So I've been delaying.
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Short update...over the past several months, I've found a usable exhaust manifold valve body/heat riser (only slightly cracked), got a crummy helicoil kit, taps and dies, and new hardware for the manifold-to-valve-body connection. Also new freeze plugs (got a brass plug for the back of the head, steel for the side of the block), all installed. By the way, if anyone needs a brass plug for their head, let me know. I bought a box of 10 online for less than the cost of one locally.
Managed to get the exhaust valve body torqued to spec...helicoil held, at least so far.
Head reinstalled. Interesting...the head gasket was labeled "top" and "front", but it would only fit "bottom" and "back". Embossed incorrectly? Must've been. Everything lined up correctly, all holes were open, the gasket indexed correctly on the positioning dowels. Torqued to 70 ft-lbs in 4 stages, smooth as butter.
Other stuff:
Found one bent pushrod, ordered a replacement. It wasn't horribly expensive, but shipping was disgusting. Still, I trust it further than just trying to straighten the tweaked one I have.
Bought an add-on temperature gauge. Hopefully the bulb seals in the head. If it does, I'll consider trying to solder it to the OEM gauge.
Next...valvetrain. Should make quicker progress since I think I finally have all the parts.
If the engine runs...I have 2 more leaks to kill - the heater control valve, and the torque ball. But one thing at a time!
Managed to get the exhaust valve body torqued to spec...helicoil held, at least so far.
Head reinstalled. Interesting...the head gasket was labeled "top" and "front", but it would only fit "bottom" and "back". Embossed incorrectly? Must've been. Everything lined up correctly, all holes were open, the gasket indexed correctly on the positioning dowels. Torqued to 70 ft-lbs in 4 stages, smooth as butter.
Other stuff:
Found one bent pushrod, ordered a replacement. It wasn't horribly expensive, but shipping was disgusting. Still, I trust it further than just trying to straighten the tweaked one I have.
Bought an add-on temperature gauge. Hopefully the bulb seals in the head. If it does, I'll consider trying to solder it to the OEM gauge.
Next...valvetrain. Should make quicker progress since I think I finally have all the parts.
If the engine runs...I have 2 more leaks to kill - the heater control valve, and the torque ball. But one thing at a time!
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firstofeight
Experienced Member
Beginning to wonder if you were still on it! Glad you are.
Ben
Ben
Rebuilt my heater control valve today. Think I did it correctly, I'm sure it'll let me know if it disagrees.
In the same vein as my head freeze plugs (could buy a box for less than a single plug locally), I found an open/partial box of Balkamp rubber seals (part# 6601000) that revive those old Ranco heater valves...for not much more than NAPA would have charged me for one of 'em. So, if anyone needs one, let me know!
In the same vein as my head freeze plugs (could buy a box for less than a single plug locally), I found an open/partial box of Balkamp rubber seals (part# 6601000) that revive those old Ranco heater valves...for not much more than NAPA would have charged me for one of 'em. So, if anyone needs one, let me know!
Lifters in, after quite a struggle. Rockers on, and lash adjusted.
Wanted to check that all of the rockers were oiling, so I pumped it up by hand.
And found that my *new* push rod (purchased last year) *leaks horribly* between the top cap and the tube.
Egge has a 12-month warranty. It's been just over 12 months. I guess I'll see how they treat me.
Darn. Still, that's progress. I guess you take what you can get.
Wanted to check that all of the rockers were oiling, so I pumped it up by hand.
And found that my *new* push rod (purchased last year) *leaks horribly* between the top cap and the tube.
Egge has a 12-month warranty. It's been just over 12 months. I guess I'll see how they treat me.
Darn. Still, that's progress. I guess you take what you can get.