STR-8 oiling system

Hi Ray,
Outside, the Gauge are in the original Position in the Maingallerie.The oil comes from the Pump thru the new Outlet under the new inserted Plug,
goes to the Original ('51) Filter in the original Position (next to the Thermostathousing) and then back to the Oilgallerie (the Hole under the Distributor).Maybe i lost pressure here ??, I must look in my ('38)Manual,but my old 248 hasn't this Oilplug.

Yesterday I closed a littlebit the Tube for the Headoiling,the Pressure goes up a little (from 10 to 15- 20 psi) but the pressure goes
down a little yet while accelerating.
Today i will change the new (big) tubes and openuped blockfittings to the the old original one.
I think about maybe there is another Reason,? the Oillines for the hydr. Lifters, now are new solidlifter inside.
Maybe there is now a internal Oilleak in this Area ? I think not.
I haven't read about a Problem like this here anywhere...
 
The stock filter cartridge was designed for a bypass system where the flow rate through the cartridge is quite low. It may be too restrictive to use on a full-flow system. That's why I asked where you were measuring the pressure.

As a test, you could remove the cartridge and put the housing cover back on without it. If the pressure increases now, you will know where the problem is. I also think that you might want to be running larger lines (tubes). The smallest I have ever seen on a full-flow conversion were about 3/8" inside diameter.

Ray
 
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I came just out of my Garage,its 10.47 PM here (I live in a old Gasstation)and had taked the old small Headoilingtube on it,its not much better....Now i look here for any good Sugestion and what i find? your new Post,thats matched . Now I go down in the Garage and try your good idear.
More in a few Minuts.............
 
No changing, the same 20 psi as before with the filterinsert..
Maybe there is a Leak at the Liftergallerie? i I told you that I switched it to solidtypes?
And I will try bigger Lines , it looks clever.
Thanks Ray:wavey:
 
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Jenz,
We run AN 10 lines [5/8] to the filter, and an AN 4 line to the turbo, and a stock line to the head. Stock pump with about a 3/8 shim on the spring. After warmup we have about 20 pounds at idle and 60-70 at speed. [any more is hard on the cam gear]. We have no bearing issues. We run Mobil 1 5W-30 with GM EOS added. Good luck.
Doug
 
oil pressure

Buick Guy said:
Jenz,
We run AN 10 lines [5/8] to the filter, and an AN 4 line to the turbo, and a stock line to the head. Stock pump with about a 3/8 shim on the spring. After warmup we have about 20 pounds at idle and 60-70 at speed. [any more is hard on the cam gear]. We have no bearing issues. We run Mobil 1 5W-30 with GM EOS added. Good luck.
Doug
Click to expand...

Doug..........did you tap into the oil galley with a 3/8" pipe thread ? ...Or , I guess what I mean is what size hole were you able to tap into the oil galley? And what brand filter are you using ?...........I run 3/8" S.S. tube to and from filter because that was as big as I was able to tap the block and have had little luck getting over 45 lbs pressure.............so now I assume it has a lot to do with the smaller size tubing running to/from the filter..................where are you picking -up your pressure from?............was thinking of going to an Olburg filter to see if that helps.

Go faast and stay safe.....Dale
 
Today I have bridged the Oilfiltering with the 3/8 "lines with a short Bow,the Prtessure goes up to 30 psi.
Thats the right Way,I switch over now to a bigger Customoilfilter with bigger Lines.
(SHIT !! I wanna the Engineroom in Oldschoollook :D)
The Motor runs great.
Thank You very much ,Ray and Doug, for the good Information.

Yes,... I will go too fast and save :thumbsup:
 
Today I have bridged the Oilfiltering with the 3/8 "lines with a short Bow,the Pressure goes up to 30 psi.
Thats the right Way,I switch over now to a bigger Customoilfilter with bigger Lines.
(SHIT !! I wanna the Engineroom in Oldschoollook :D)
The Motor runs great.
Thank You very much ,Ray and Doug, for the good Information.

Yes,... I will go too fast and save :thumbsup:

Nice greetings from
 
Dale,
We tapped the block 1/2 NPT and used #10 lines. Used a cast adapter that takes a Ford filter. We use a K-N 3001. A seperate pump feeds the piston oilers so we don't overtax the stock pump. We take the oil pressure reading off of the second from the rear galley plug and use the stock line and fittings for the head. [be sure to use the stock restrictor fitting in the head]. We also take the turbo oiler off of the galley.
Doug
 
Jenz, that's great news! You are on the way home now.

If you want an old school appearance for the filter, you might try looking for a filter housing from a late 261 Chevy truck engine. I believe the full-flow ones were made from around 1958 until 1962 (the end of production). You will still need to run large diameter lines of course. Make sure not to get a filter from a Canadian 261 car engine, as those are the bypass type like the 235.

Ray
 
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Hi Ray ,Thanks for the Info.
I think I forget for a While My "Old School" Rule and assemble a customtype Filterhousing with bigger Lines and 3/8" ID
Fittings in the Block.
Its here absolute impossible to find Chevy Truck Parts from this Engine,but we haven't them here.
Only in Pick Ups they still running as "Collector Cars"
Next Time I will look out for an adequate old Truck Filter Housing from a european Truck like from a MAN,Deutz,Mercedes,Volvo
or a Caterpillarrope...

I'm nearer now to kick the SBC Guys in theyr Ass :D

Next Winter i pimp the Head with bigger Valves and porting and milling (this Year is enough Money in the Motor flowted and i MUST now on the Streets)

Thank You very much Guys for helping:waving:
 
News from my Oilingproblem,
You are right,the lines are "was" too small.
The low Pressure was enough for the Mainbearings but not enough for the Rods,Damn!!
After 180 Miles are a single nocking I have heard from the new Engine, AND ?:
Yes,after drop my Oilpan and open the Rodbearings too less Oil on the Rodbearings !!
The Crank are damaged too.New undersizebearings I have ordered, and the Crank is allready on my Bench and wait for machinig.
I can kick my own Ass for that I believe that it will work :clonk:
I was too fast with finishing the Enginebuilding for drive the first Rounds.
For Now i have changed the Engine (I have a Spare248 inside now).But the frst Meeting
is next Weekend.
Now I can take enough Time for fixing the 263er correct.

...learning thru Pain !!

I am shamed
 
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Jenz,
Remember that no matter how big the lines are, the limitation of the flow is only as much as the smallest opening on either side of the pump and the oil galley. if you have a fitting or passageway that is only 5/16 or 3/8, that determines how much flow will go through regardless of the 1/2 lines. Look closely at every connection and turn. We even reworked the oil filter adapter with the die grinder to get max flow on the entry and exit there. we even opened up connection fittings as much as possible without weakening the threads. We have had no signs of oil starvation. These are critical decisions, take your time.
Doug
 
Yes ,correct,I had open up the Fittings like the same "too small" ID as the Lines.
When the new Oilfilterhousing is coming I will open it up and the the fittings too,up as much it is save for the Material.
In the Block I must tap bigger Threads of course.Now it is easy to fix the Threads an the importants Thing for Me,is to blasting out the Swarfs. The whole Engine and Crank is out and all the work is now very easy.

Thats the only positiv Aspect on this :clonk:

Thanks Doug
 
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Jyrki said:
Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?
Click to expand...

The Buick has the same setup as the early GMC truck engines.

http://www.inliners.org/tech/full_flo_GMC.html
 
More questions re full flow systems

Buick Guy, Jenz 38 and all the rest, greetings from Australia. I'm retoring a 1947 Buick Super, body off and a complete rebuild of the engine.
I've read with great interest all the posts and decided to modify my engine as well.
I have a few questions re the actual tapping and drilling of the block.
How did you drill the oil gallery holes? Did you just centre punch the spot and use a hand drill getting bigger each time or did you get it done at a machine shop?
How did you measure the internal size of the gallery to tap the thread for the plug to block the gallery so the oil goes to the filter?
Do you think an10 is bigenough to allow sufficient flow for the oil?
I have contacted Cars Inc who said that the filters replacemnts they sell are made of modern material and construction so I hoped to use the old canister for the filter for originality.
Just where is the plug placed (how far up) to block the vertical gallery and where is the gallery tapped for the return or is it obvious when looking at the block what and where to do it? I'm at work in Papua New Guinea at the moment and don't have the block to look at as I think of these questions.
May I have some detailed pictures of you drillings so I don't screw my block up? Would hate to do so after so much work on the rebuild so far. Found this thread just in time as I was about to put the crankshaft and pistons in.
For Buick Guy, does your filter drain back to the sump over time being on its side? And is there a reason that it is mounted horizontally not vertically?
The more I research the whole rebuild scene the more I find out and want to do. Howevre time is against me and I want to finish the car before I get too old to enjoy it and become a menace to all other road users. Been going on for ten years now hopefully only a couple left!
:hurray:Thanks in advance for the help.

Trackless
 
Hi Trackless
the Oilhole between Pump and Gallerie is at my Block the correct ID for cut in careful a (Metric)M 16 Thread without predrilling. For the Plug i use a schortend (0.5 Inch long)M 16 Screw with a cut in, to turn it in with a Screwdriver. the plug is saved with Loctite Blue for Threads .I have it
all drilled with hand,the outside Extra Holes to. but the Engine was disassembled and dry for complete clean out all Lines after drilling.
For the setting the Plug You must meassure how deep is the beginning of the Maingallerie,thats the End from Your M 16 thread. And
under the installed Plug You drill the Outsidecomming Fitting.

Thats my Version

Is it OK,Buick Guy ?:wavey:

Greetz
 
Thanks

Jenz 38, :thumbsup:
Thanks for your reply, given me new hope that I can do it myself and not stuff it all up!
Will keep intouch and let the mob know how I go when I get home.
Thanks again

Trackless
 
OK,let me/us hear how's your project going on . Greetings to the other Side of the World :waving:
 
Jyrki said:
Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?
Click to expand...
Hey Jyrki, just checked this thread, have you successfully performed all the feedback into a still working full cycle oil filtering system? What's the current (or last) status? Any pictures of the final system, optimal locations for oil out and oil in? which diameter tubes? thx!
 
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