STR-8 oiling system

Jyrki

Jyrki

Team Member
Moderator
Gerry, thanks for the pics! Your oiling system caught my attention. I am wondering if you managed to route 100% of the oil thru the filter, and if yes, how did you modify the main oil gallery to accomplish this?

I remember someone else on this forum had also a full filtered system, but I forgot to ask how he did it. So here's your chance to spill your secrets! Anyone?

I'm also interested to hear if people have kept the Buick "floating" pickup tube functional. In principle it's kind of smart, but I don't know if it might cause the pump to suck air under some conditions?
 
YOu can see my full filter system here. It is the two oil lines below the dizzy. YOu need to tap the block in two spots, as seen. Then put a plug in from the oil pan side so the oil is all forced to the filter then back to the galley.

36buick005-323x269.jpg
 
Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

But where is your filter?

Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.
 
Straight 8 lifters

Jyrki said:
Thanks for the info, 36 Century, I think I got the idea now. You plug the channel going from the pump to the main galley, just before the galley. Then you drill and tap a new hole from outside of the block, into that channel above the pump, route it thru a filter and back to the main galley.

But where is your filter?

Did you modify the pump or pickup in any way?

Did you keep that restricted fitting on the head that restricts oil flow to the rocker arm shaft? I would say my 320 has suffered from inadequate flow to the #7 and #8 rocker arms, and the rockers had worn out, as were the lifters. When I reassembled the engine, I primed the oil system with an electric drill, and it seems to take a very long time until you see oil flowing from the rearmost rockers. So I don't see any reason to limit the oil flow to the valvetrain, other than to limit oil consumption thru the valve guides.

The shop manual recommends 20 weight oil (SAE 20), which seems a bit thin, but I'm not sure if the viscosity specifications of the 40's are comparable to today's specs. I assume they are. I have been using a SAE 30 oil (5W30), and the oil pressure is normal. At least there's no need to go any heavier.
Click to expand...

HI I wanted to ask a question about a 1950 248. I also plan on converting to full filter flow but I was wondering if you can run hydraulic lifters from a 263 in the 248? Thanks Clint
 
straight 8

Bob,
That's an illusion. The hose is a double braded hydraulic hose, and just today, I had to move the filter and had to use a pry bar to get the filter mount off of the mount studs. I didn't want to loosen the hoses or I would get a Mobil l oil bath. Not pretty. One note, the Aeroquip fittings in the block have to be of alternating lengths away from the block so that the hoses can clear each other. It took more time to go through the catalog than it did to put it together. If you are doing this project , let me know if I can help out. Doug
 
straight 8

Jryki,
Anybody contemplating this filter system. Keep in mind that "ALL" let me repeat:"ALL" of the oil has to go through the filter. If you rev the engine when the oil is cold and of hihg viscosity, you will balloon the filter or worse, blow the filter off of the car. You will show oil pressure until all of the oil has exited the breech. You will have mere seconds to save the engine. There isn't a bypass valve on this setup. Just a warning. Doug
 
That's an illusion. The hose is a double braded hydraulic hose,

actually, i was talking about the hose above the distributor cap ( radiator? ). sorry for the confusion.




you will balloon the filter or worse, blow the filter off of the car.You will show oil pressure until all of the oil has exited the breech.You will have mere seconds to save the engine.

ouch.

too much work to kludge a bypass on there?


looks like if you used T-fittings instead of 90° elbows, you could configure a bypass to the rear of the filter without making things too crowded. would that interfere in the engine bay?
 
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Some filters have a bypass built into them. Just have to find one that would fit the mount, or a mount that would fit the filter.
 
straight 8

Keep in mind, that all of the oil from the pump has to go through the filter, as there is a solid steel plug between the two fittings. You could [if there was room] put in a tee in the bottom hose and some sort of adjustable pressure valve and route it back into the oil galley. For our use, we decided to keep it simple and keep the oil pressure below about 70 lbs. We only run 5 miles at a time, and with 8 quarts of oil it hardly gets warm.
About the kinked hose, I just moved it to the side for the picture. It's just the road draft tube.[crankcase vent] Doug
 
Buick Guy said:
Jryki,
Anybody contemplating this filter system. Keep in mind that "ALL" let me repeat:"ALL" of the oil has to go through the filter. If you rev the engine when the oil is cold and of hihg viscosity, you will balloon the filter or worse, blow the filter off of the car. You will show oil pressure until all of the oil has exited the breech. You will have mere seconds to save the engine. There isn't a bypass valve on this setup. Just a warning. Doug
Click to expand...

should be a bypass built into the pump, we flow tested the pump and set the bypass spring at 40 lbs. also put an oling bar inside the valve cover in order to flood the valve springs (for cooling the springs)
 
Bypass

Thanks for the detailed pics, Doug!
As for the bypass valve under the filter on newer engines, it's function is to provide the engine the necessary oil flow should the filter become clogged. The pump bypass prevents the pump itself from breaking, but if the filter becomes severely clogged, nothing will prevent engine damage. Then again, I wonder what could cause the filter become clogged so rapidly you didn't have time to react?

Also another point there. As the whole oil volume runs thru the filter, the hoses or tubes must be large enough to support that volume.
 
Jyrki said:
Saltracer, are you running any kind of valve seals? Umbrella or positive type?
Click to expand...

Yes , we run "positive" type..................we really made a big-ass deal of that oiling bar.........think maybe we had too much time on our hands. First, we made a plexaglass valve cover so that we could see how this was going to work , ie. size of holes and indexing them so them covered the valve springs............ended up with a 3/8 tube with .050" slots cut in it, them rotated it to were it flooded the springs, not sure if it was needed at all but wanted also to protect those high-dollar roller rockers..............but thats "HOT RODDING"
 
Roller Rockers

Slightly offtopic, but since you mentioned roller rockers, I would like to hear more (we had a discussion on them elsewhere). A while ago I looked at my friend's BB Mopar roller rockers and thought they might be adapted...
 
Hi Together,
Now i have fired up my new 263er with fullfload Oilfiltering.
The block have a Plug in and all go from the Pump thru a Extratube to
the Original Filter. I have used bigger 5mm(3/16") ID Tubes everywere also for the
Headoiling and drill up the Fittings to 5 mm.
I have a Pressure from nearly 10 psi or less in Idle,if i accelerate its not go higher,it goes down :confused:...
I have a 6mm Washer under the Backpressurespring in the new Oilpump.
Drive a 15 W 40 and the Oilpressuregauge is OK.

Any experiences ?
The Tubes are to big?
Now I will increase the Oilpumpspringpressure more,what do you Guys mean?
I think the Oilpressuregauge is OK.
Thank ahead
 
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Ok,I open the Oilpan,have checked the Pump,all is perfect, and increase again the Springpressure.
Now the pressure in idle is 15 psi ,I have checked it with an extra Gauge in the Maingallerie,but not goes up while exelerating..
The Reason is the too big Oiltubes and Fittings in the Block,the Oilflow is too high,
not enough Backpressure.Today i will try new Fittings with smaller (original) ID.
Especially the Tube that go up from the Gallerie to the Head.
 
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Are those pressure measurements taken at the inlet side of the filter or the outlet side?

Ray
 
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