Manifold Paint/Gaskets

janeb23

janeb23

Member
Hi! 😊

I have a '52 Super 263 and I just bought a new (reproduction) exhaust manifold and valve body for it. The intake manifold cleaned up ok, but I'm wondering whether I should have it blasted to bring it up to 100% for the rebuild. (I used a combination of oven cleaner and evaporust (which actually left behind a dusty grey residue that I can't entirely remove and am a little concerned about)).

I have seen a number of threads concerning the gasket but have yet to see much of a concensus on what to use. As for protecting the manifolds, do I need to paint or ceramic coat them, or is it okay to just leave them how they are? I'm on a bit of a budget and I'm mainly concerned with functionality; I don't mind a bit of rust if it isn't going to hurt anything.

Any and all input will be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

-Jane
 
Sounds like you have made some good steps. If you had a friend who could let you use their bead blaster for a final prep that would be good. Regardless as to whether you can do that I would probably finish them with some cast iron grey from someone like POR-15. The dust probably won't matter because POR-15 sticks to rust which is an unstable surface. I would use a brush to apply it.
 
Thanks Bob! I ordered some POR 15. Any chance you would like to weigh in on the manifold gasket debate? I've seen a few things --only use the graphite/gear oil slurry, use the slurry on the gasket, I think I saw someone said just use orange RTV... the list goes on lol.
 
If your manifolds are not flat you will have problems. You can check them with a known straight edge, or find a machine shop with a belt surfacer and ask them to check them for you and surface them if needed.
 
I use Rem-Flex. Bob is correct. If using NO gasket, the manifold surface and the head surface must be flat.

On another tack, when assembling the new exhaust and valve body to the intake , leave the bolts slightly loose until assembled to head. Then tighten.

Ben
 
Here is an old hot rodder's trick for cast iron exhaust manifolds. Use a product called Slip Plate Graphite Lubricant in the aerosol can and your cast iron manifolds will look like new (dark Grey finish) and the finish will last forever. Will not burn off or discolor. And, if you ever need a touchup, for whatever reason, it only takes a quick spritz and blends right in. Just wire brush the manifolds (no need to blast them), if rusty, and apply the product in a couple light coats. Dries super fast and gets baked in when you run the engine. Forget all the other stuff like PORS and ceramic coating. Here is a link...You can buy a can on Amazon....

www.slipplate.com

SLIP Plate® Aerosol | SLIP Plate

www.slipplate.com www.slipplate.com
 
Thanks for the replies! I already bought the POR-15 though that hot rodder's trick sounds super cool 😎 And Ben--I appreciate the tip on assembling the intake/exhaust/valve body. I have a little time off work so I'm trying to get as far as possible in the build. I do have gaskets (they're whatever came with the gasket kit from oldbuickparts.com a few years ago).

If it's not going to hurt anything I'd really like to try the graphite/oil slurry on the gaskets since I have it all on hand. The exhaust manifold is new, so it should be pretty straight. My priority is just getting the engine running, but I sure as heck don't want to crack that manifold!

--Jane
 
Unless the chemical make up is different from years back, Por-15 deteriorates with UV light. It is tuff coating, Ive used it on chassis. Naval jelly, Oxpho have phosphoric acid, so they etch metal and convert rust red oxide to a black oxide, leaving a protective layer. So, you want the gray color after treating bare steel with Oxpho or Naval Jelly. The oven cleaners do have an acid, so can possibly etch metal. Now distilled water is best to neutralize the phosphoric acid. I have used alcohol to prior to painting. I would avoid using tap water to clean any parts unless it has some soap in it, followed with alcohol wipe down. Sand blasting is if you aren't going to treat chemically, and it would not have any protection afterwards. If you see any paint chips on cars, some rust and others don't. It is because the metal that doesn't has some zinc or other protection. The rusted one usually someone has painted and sanded down the protection. If you are curious on a 4th generation VW is very rare to see rust, because the multiple protection layers on the metal at time of build.
 
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